Unique Cages for Unique Pets
Posts tagged Pet Care
Bearded Dragon Caresheet
May 23rd
More info at Bearded Dragon Page
Housing
For a bearded dragon that is under two months old and under 7 inches long, I would recommend a cage that has at least two square feet of floor space. The aquarium size equivalent to his would probably be about 30 gallons. I would not use anything bigger because the bearded dragon would have trouble finding its food. I would also not recommend using anything smaller because then the lizard wouldn’t have enough room to run around and be active. For a juvenille that is between 9 and 13 inches, I would recommend using a cage that has about four square feet of floor space, or a 55gallon aquarium. This size can be used for a single adult as well. For adults, make sure you have at least 4sq feet of ground space for each adult. Never house more than 4 or 5babies together or else you will have nipped tails and missing feet.
The enclosure can be made of anything, but I prefer either wood or glass. This is because they hold heat better than any other material. Whatever you use make sure there is plenty of room and there is a top on the cage. this is to prevent the lizard from escaping.
Substrate
The substrate can be anything you want it to be. Just make sure it is not toxic to the animal. I would recommend using either sand, newspaper, paper towels, alfafa pellets, or astro turf. If you use sand make sure it is washed playsand that you can buy at toys R’ us or home depot. Dont use sand for bearded dragons that are under two minths of age. This is because they are more likely to ingest the sand and block their intestines than older bearded dragons. If this happens then they most likely will die. If you use astroturf, make sure there are no frared edges just incase the bearded dragon might eat it and get impacted. Whatever you use make sure the substrate is kept clean and replaced periodically. NEVER USE PINE OR CEDAR AS THE SUBSTRATE BECAUSE THEY ARE TOXIC TO REPTILES AND WILL KILL THEM.
Decorations
I would recommend using wood and rocks to decorate the cage. This way the cage will sort of resemble the bearded dragons natural habitat. The wood I recomend using is sandblasted grapevine or sterilized driftwood. Driftwood can be sterilized by putting it in the oven at 200degrees for about 30 minutes. Always keep an eye on the wood to make sure it doesn’t start on fire. The rocks can be small 5 pound boulders that can be found everywhere, also make sure they are sterilized the same way as the wood. These are just recommendations on how to decorate a cage, do it anyway you want but DONT USE PINE OR CEDAR BECAUSE THEY ARE TOXIC TO REPTILES.
Heating
To heat the cage I would recommend using an incandescent light bulb in a reflector dome placed over one end of the cage. The reflector dome and light bulb can be purchased from home depot or walmart for about $8. The temperatures in the cage should be (all in degrees fahrenheit) 80-85 in the cool end 90-95 in the warm end, and 100-105 directly under the light bulb. To heat the cage you can also use a heat pad that can be purchased from any petstore that deals with reptiles. I would only use this in conjuction with the reflector dome in cooler parts of the country. It should be wrapped in a towel and placed under one end of the cage. The wattage of light bulb depends on the cage size, try out different wattages untill you get the closest to the temperatures mentioned above. NEVER USE HOT ROCKS, BECUASE THEY DEVELOPE HOT SPOTS AND CAN SEVERELY BURN YOUR LIZARD.
Lighting
Always have a UVB UVA light such as Reptisun 5.0 or vitalite placed over the cage at all times. The light should be kept on for about 12 hours a day, always turn off all lights at night. If you don’t use a UVB UVA light bulb then the lizard will die. The light bulb helps the lizard absorb vital nutrients and vitamins that are needed for good health. In addition to the special lighting, periodical exposure to natural sunlight will also be helpful. NEVER LEAVE YOUR LIZARD UNATTENDED OUTSIDE BECAUSE IT MIGHT RUN AWAY. The lights can be purchased from any petstore that deals with reptiles. Make sure the light bulb is long enough to cover the whole length of the cage.
Diet
Baby bearded dragons should be fed about 80% live foods like crickets, mealworms, and very very occasionally waxworms. Always make sure that the babys prey is no more than 1/4 inch long and half that width. Anything bigger will cause irreversable damage to the bearded dragon. They should also be fed leafy greens like kale, collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, radish leaves, but never feed iceburg lettuce because it has no nutritional value whatsoever. Juvenilles and adults can be fed appropiately sized insects like crickets, locusts, grasshoppers, mealworms, superworms, and an occasional waxworm or pinky mouse. Only feed pinkys and waxworms ever once in awhile because they are high in fat content. Make sure the prey is not longer than the distance between the eyes of the bearded dragon and half the width.
Every other meal should be supplemented with a calcium supplement and a multi vitamin. the calcium can be grinded up tums or a product called rep-cal/ the multi vitamin can be herptivite. All these can be purchased from a petstore that deals with reptiles.
Selecting a Bearded Dragon
The bearded dragon you are looking to buy should have bright alert eyes. It should appear active and healthy. It should not have a fecal matter by the vent or deformities (crooked jaw, bent arm, etc). It should not have any external parasites or wounds (ticks, mites, bleeding sores, etc). And if possible, have the person you are buying from feed the dragon before you buy it, This wya you will be able to see if the dragon is eating before you buy it.
Ball Python Heat Gradients
May 23rd
Read more at Ball Python Care.
This article discusses ball python care in general but we particularly liked how it reinforced the importance of maintaining a satisifactory heat gradient. To that end, we’ve derived a special UTH window that fits securely in the floor to accomodate under tank heaters where a heat rock is inappropriate. The insulative properities of plywood will not allow heat, or at least a sufficient amount of heat, to radiate through the floor and into the cage to promote digestion and respiratory health. Now pet owners can get the best of both worlds, pairing the benefits of a UTH with the consistent, even temperate gradient of wood.
How To Care For A Ball Python
It’s easier than you think!
Before you ever get a snake of ANY species, consider the following:
1) How big will this snake get, and do I have the room to properly house an animal of that size?
> A ball python does great in a smaller cage considering its size, but a burmese python needs an enclosure at least half its body length – and some burmese get up to 20 feet long! Can you really fit a 10 foot long cage in your house?
2) Can I REALLY afford all the accessories and supplies for the snake?
> For example, for a basic ball python setup, you should budget at least 100 dollars for everything.
3) Am I comfortable feeding mice or rats to the snake?
> Snakes can never be vegetarians; their digestive systems are evolved to live completely on animal proteins. If you have troubles feeding rats to snakes because you had a pet rat once and they’re just so cute… You might want to rethink getting a larger snake. Smaller species such as sandboas and cornsnakes never get large enough to eat rats.
4) Will I still want this snake 20 years from now?
> Most snakes are pretty long lived. Ball pythons easily reach ages of 20 years or even 30 with proper care, and cornsnakes can live up to 25. Are you going to be as fascinated with the snake then as you are now, or are you going to get bored with its care and tire of cleaning the cage? Think realistically – if you’re 20 now and get a baby ball python, when you are 50 years old that snake is very likely to still be going strong!
5) If the snake is for your children… Are you prepared to take over its care?
> Let’s face it, kids are kids, and usually have short attention spans. You as the parent are responsible for the animal’s wellbeing. After a year or so, your child will probably begin to forget to remind you to pick up snakefood on the way home. They might stop cleaning the cage regularly or providing fresh water daily. When that happens, you either need to take over care of the snake, find it a new home with people who will care for it the rest of its life, or start reminding/nagging the child to take care of his or her pet. Unless you have an exceptional child who is mature for his or her age, I don’t recommend snakes for pets for children under 8 years of age.
About The Ball Python Species
Ball Pythons are also known as Royal Pythons in countries outside of the US. That is where they get thier latin name, Python Regius, from. The name Royal Python comes from the myth that Cleopatra wore them as living jewelry around her wrists and neck. The term Ball Python comes from their habit of curling up into a ball as a defense. Ball Pythons are native to the Central Western and Western parts of Africa, with most imported snakes originating in Benin, Ghana, or Togo.
Ball Pythons are constrictors, which puts them in the boid family, along with other pythons and boas. These snakes are also known as “Old World” snakes, because they still have vestigal hips. You can actually see the remnants of legs on either side of the vent, like below. These leg remnants are known as spurs, and ball python males use theirs to “tickle” the female into readiness during courtship. (Pictured is an adult female)
Ball Pythons are exceptionally long lived snakes. The oldest snake on record lived at a zoo, and was reported to have died at the ripe old age of 48 years. Most people who take good care of their animals can expect them to live at least 25 years, if not more.
Ball Pythons are among the smallest python species. Average length of a Ball Python is anywhere from 3 feet to 5 feet, with males generally being smaller than females. Females have been known to get over 5 feet in length, but this is uncommon. There are no obvious visual differences between male and female Ball Pythons! Some might argue that spur length is an indicator of gender, with males having longer spurs, or that a female ball python will always be larger than a male. This is not true. While yes, most females are bigger than most males, there are many, many exceptions to this. The only way to truly know the gender of your adult snake is to probe it. This is when someone who knows what they’re doing (I do NOT recommend you try this without someone showing you how) takes a thin, metal rod and uses it to very gently probe inside the vent back towards the tail. In males, the probe will go deep, because it is following one of the two hemipenes. In females, the probe will barely go past a couple scales. Another method of sexing that is most successful on young snakes is ‘popping’, where the keeper gently pops the hemipenes out. This only works well on younger snakes that do not have strong muscle control over that part of their body yet. I repeat, I do not recommend trying to sex your snake yourself until someone with experience shows you how.
The Setup
First, let us talk about how snakes maintain their body temperature. Snakes are Ectotherms, meaning they get their body heat from their surroundings. This is also known as being “cold-blooded”. Because snakes get their body heat from their environment, that means it is entirely up to you to make sure they have the temperatures they need to thrive. The best way to provide heat for a snake is through a heat gradient; that is, you have a range of temperatures the animal can choose from. For a Ball Python, your ‘hot’ side needs to be around 90 degrees, and your ‘cold’ side needs to be around 80. Keeping a constant temperature of, say, 85 degrees through the entire tank seems like it would be fine, but in reality stresses out your animal. They know what temperature they need to be, and providing a range to choose from allows them to monitor their own body temperature. That is why it is so important to have a heat gradient, and not just one temperature throughout.
Now, the cage! Ball Pythons spend most of their lives in animal burrows in the wild, and so in captivity, spend most of their time hiding in the smallest, darkest, tightest place they can find. On the one hand, that leads to a pretty boring animal to watch, but on the other, they don’t need a large cage. In fact, younger ball pythons do better in smaller cages. A 10 gallon aquarium or something of similar size works well for balls under 1 year of age. For older animals, a 20L tank or something of similar size is adequate.
To heat the cage, a UTH (Under Tank Heater) is by far the best method. Balls need belly heat to digest their food, and a UTH provides this without the drawbacks of a heatrock. Never, EVER use a heatrock. Heatrocks tend to burn animals, and you are best off just staying far, FAR away from them. Back to UTH – I recommend you get a rheostat or some sort of dimmer so you can better control your temperatures. In summer you aren’t going to need to heat things up quite as much as you need to in winter, right?
About winter – if you live in an area that gets very cold, you might want to consider using a heatlamp for that time. UTH’s do not heat the air very well, and so you might find that your snake never moves from where you have it attached to your cage. You can use a low-wattage bulb in a heatlamp to heat up the air in your cage. When you do this, however, you will need to make sure that the heatlamp does not dry out the air too much, which is why I only recommend it when it is cold out.
Ball Pythons require humidity between 40-60%. I recommend you get a digital hygrometer along with digital thermometers to measure your humidity and temperature. You should have something to measure the temperature on both sides of the cage (hot and cold, remember?), with the humidity cage whereever you like. Do not guess at temperatures or humidity, KNOW. There is no excuse for not knowing exactly what temperatures your snake is living at! You might be freezing or cooking your animal without ever knowing it.
As far as cage furniture goes, all you need are two hides (one for each side) and a water bowl big enough for the snake to soak in. My favorite hides are cereal or shoeboxes; they fit my adult snakes perfectly! Just remember that the snakes are looking for the smallest, tightest spot they can fit, so make sure their hides are not too big.
Substrate is what you put on the bottom of the cage, and really depends on your preference. I like to use papertowel, because it’s easy to clean and cheap. Other possibilities are cypress mulch, aspen shavings, or coconut fibers. NEVER, EVER use CEDAR of any kind – it is toxic to just about any kind of animal.
Feeding
Young Ball Pythons should be fed every 7 to 10 days, and adult animals can be dropped to every 10 to 14 days. There are many schools of thought on the “right” way to feed a ball python; basically, if your animal is at a good weight and healthy, then you’re doing it right. Here’s an example of my feeding schedule for my three:
Periscope: 1 small rat every 7 days
Darwin: 1 medium rat every 10-14 days
Cindy: 1 medium rat every 7 days
Periscope is a growing young snake and uses all that energy from regular, frequent feeding to grow. Darwin is at a comfortable weight and healthy, and so he is fed less frequently. Cindy is putting weight back on after laying eggs, and so she is getting small, frequent meals to gain weight. Cindy could easily take jumbo rats; however, she doesn’t need to. Feeder animals are extremely nutritious compared to what these snakes would eat in the wild, and so they do just as well on smaller prey items.
Ball Pythons are notorious for being finicky eaters. Common causes for not eating are stress, breeding season, or too-low temperatures. However, sometimes, balls just don’t eat for whatever reason. If your snake is at a healthy weight, then you have nothing to worry about. The only time you should worry is if it has been over 6 months since the snake last ate AND it is losing weight. Ball Pythons have been known to fast for up to a year with no ill effects, so while it is stressful for you to have a snake refusing to eat, remember that for the snake it is perfectly normal.
Ball Pythons do not “hibernate” during the winter. Wintertime is their breeding season, and it usually begins once temperatures start dropping at night. Many Ball Pythons will not eat during this time, regardless of whether or not there’s a snake of the opposite gender around.
Iguana Metabolic Bone Disease
Apr 30th
Please check out the rest of NSHP’s website here.
Introduction
The most common reptile brought to our hospital is the green iguana. The primary reason owners bring in their ill green iguana’s is because they have developed a disease called metabolic bone disease (MBD), also known as nutritional secondary hyperparathyroidism (NSHP). The cause of this disease is poor husbandry, especially an inadequate diet. Unfortunately, the literature abounds with erroneous information on the precise needs of these creatures. This outdated an incorrect information continues to be propagated by individuals and organizations with good intentions but limited knowledge.
Iguanas are not the only reptile that encounters this problem. We find it in many types of lizards, turtles, and tortoises. It does not occur in carnivorous reptiles like snakes and monitor lizards very often because the whole prey they consume provides a proper diet.
We have a short Quicktime movie on an Iguana with twitching muscles. You need Quicktime from www.apple.com to view it.
Cause
This disease has many factors that work together in causing this condition. The primary reason iguanas develop this disease is due to a diet too low in calcium. More specifically, the ratio of calcium to phosphorous (usually the phosphorous is too high) in their diets is inadequate to promote growth and sustain normal physiological functions. As a result, they become very ill, and can even succumb to the disease.
Other factors that exacerbate the poor diet problem are common in most households that have iguanas. Inadequate exposure to direct sunlight (not through glass), not keeping the humidity at 90% and not keeping the temperature at 90 degrees F all add to the problem:
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Sunlight of a specific ultraviolet frequency is needed to produce vitamin D3 by the iguana’s skin. This vitamin is needed for the absorption and utilization of calcium in the diet. No matter how much calcium there is in the diet, without this vitamin the calcium would not be be absorbed or utilized . This is why milk that we drink is fortified with vitamin D. Black Lights and other artificial ultraviolet lights are helpful, but they can not replace sunshine.
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In order to maintain normal bodily functions (ability to digest food, fight infections, etc.) an iguana needs to maintain a high body temperature. Since they are reptiles, they maintain this temperature by absorbing the heat from their environment. They can not produce enough internal body heat like birds and mammals can when placed in a cold environment. also, the precursor to vitamin D needs to be at the proper temperature to be converted to the active form of the vitamin.
In the semi arid environment in some parts of the country, or the heat needed to warm homes in the winter, many iguanas live in a perpetual state of dehydration. This dramatically interferes with their physiology and predisposes them to many problems.
This is a typical Iguana cage that is inadequate. There is no branch with leaves to bask on, no access to any sun, let alone through the glass, and inadequate humidity. The bowl of water does not give enough moisture, and the heat lamp that is present in the corner does not supply proper ambient heat. Putting dirt in the bottom of the cage is a good idea.
Symptoms
Iguanas with this disease have many problems. The bones might be swollen, soft, or even fractured. In severe cases the blood calcium level becomes so low that tremors occur. The jaw might be swollen (called lumpy jaw by some people) because nature is trying to bring in supporting tissue to make up for the lack of strength to the bones of the jaw. The same thing happens to the bones of the legs, and when the problem is severe enough, or has gone on long enough, the bones of the arms and legs can fracture (called a pathologic fracture) all by themselves. Some of these iguanas will be unable to walk properly due to spinal cord damage, and many of them will be more susceptible to common infections because they are too weak to develop a proper immune response. As the bones of the jaw become weaker it becomes impossible to eat, further exacerbating the problem. They may have distended abdomens and bones leading their owners to the erroneous conclusion that their pet is fat and sassy, and receiving an adequate diet. Growing iguanas and females laying eggs have a greater need for calcium and might me more prone to this problem. Females with eggs might not have the strength to lay them, and sometimes even require surgery if they become egg bound.
Lumpy jaw occurs when the body brings fibrous tissue to the area to stabilize the weak bones. A lump at the jaw can also be caused by an abscess.
The fold of skin on the side of this iguana is evidence of dehydration.
This Iguana has such a low calcium level that the muscles are twitching. Double click the movie once it downloads and you can see the arm muscles and hands twitching. This is called tetany, and is a serious sign. The two most common causes of tetany in an Iguana are MBD and Kidney failure.
Diagnosis
A diagnosis of NSHP is made based on history, physical exam findings, and radiography. The history might indicate a diet of iceberg lettuce, dog or cat food, or packaged iguana meal. Swelling of the jaw and legs, low body weight, weakness, dehydration, poor appetite, and lethargy all might be noted on physical exam. X-rays are very diagnostic. Even though this is a problem of low calcium level, blood samples show normal calcium levels commonly.
This is the femur (thigh) bone of a healthy iguana. Compare it to the diseased one below.
This is the thinning (arrow) that occurs in this disease. In addition to poor bone strength, this iguana has an infection.
This iguana has a severe form of the disease. The spine is deformed which has interfered with the nervous system, so it is unable to walk or eat well. This creature is gravely ill. To let a creature deteriorate to this point is a crime.
An x-ray reveals the extent of the curvature problem to the spine.
Treatment
Iguanas that are diagnosed with NSHP are usually very ill and often need to be hospitalized. During hospitalization they are given fluids to correct dehydration, a special liquid diet, injections of vitamin D3, injections of calcium, oral calcium, and antibiotics if they have an infection. Those that have pathologic fractures are splinted.
After they are stabilized in the hospital they are sent home with calcium supplements, antibiotics if needed, and their dietary deficiency is corrected. They need to return weekly for at least several weeks for vitamin D3 injections and calcitonin injections.
A typical splint applied when both rear legs have pathological fractures.
An x-ray of this splint shows the padded paper clips that are used for support.
This different case was referred to us. The splints on these front legs are inadequate, as evidenced by the displacement of the fractured ends.
We performed surgery in order to correct this problem. These pins will be removed in 1-2 months.
This disease occurs in other lizards, like this young chameleon with numerous pathological fractures. There are differences in why this species gets this problem as opposed to the green iguana, but the main problem of inadequate husbandry stays consistent.
This little guy has fractures on all 4 legs due to inadequate husbandry.
In some cases the bones that allow the tongue to move normally are permanently injured and the tongue is rendered useless.
This disease also occurs in tortoises.The shell is soft due to inadequate nutrition.
Prevention
It must be fully understood that iguanas are ectothermic animals. This means they are highly dependent on their environment for their normal physiological functions, much more so than birds and mammals. They come from Central america where the temperature and humidity are consistent- 90% humidity and 90 degrees F. In addition, they bask in the direct sun many hours each day. If these conditions can not be replicated then these animals should not be kept in captivity. Ignorance of their needs is no excuse.
Their diet should consist heavily of dark green leafy vegetables in order to have the proper ratio of calcium to phosphorous. Contrary to what you may read elsewhere, these animals are not omnivores, they are strictly vegetarians, even when they are young. Therefore, high protein diets (dog food, cat food, protein supplements) are not to be fed to them. These high protein diets will cause them to grow bigger and faster, but will also cause their kidneys to fail. Vitamin supplements that contain calcium should be given weekly.
The following list describes would should and should not be fed. A combination of several items from the “Should Be Fed List” need to be fed, not just one or two items. For small iguana’s it is helpful to dice up your vegetables into very small pieces so that they don’t eat only a few items.
Foods That Should Be Fed
Collared GreensMustard GreensGreen LeafRed LeafButter leafDandelion GreensMango and PapayaBroccoliNon toxic flowers
Foods That Should Not Be Fed
Dog FoodCat FoodRodentsEggsIceberg LettucePizzaMeatInsects
Prognosis
This disease is correctable and preventable. If a pet iguana is brought to us in an advanced state of the disease then the prognosis is not good. Otherwise, we are able to return a large percent of them to relative normalcy if our full treatment regimen is followed. After the immediate problem is corrected it is mandatory to provide the optimum environment for their proper quality of life.
Reptile Racks
Apr 20th
In the spirit of Building vs Buying. Jason at NortheastSnakes.com has a step-by-step pictorial for building your own rack. Find the plans here.
INTRODUCTION:
I started with the idea of making an affordable, yet simple reptile rack, that houses reptiles efficiently & securely. These racks are simply an alternative for hobbyists, like myself, who cannot afford expensive, professionally manufactured rack systems. I was going to start selling these racks, however, I have had several medical problems and am unable to produce these racks on a regular basis. Furthermore, I could not find a way to ship them to still keep it cost effective. Therefore, this page is an attempt to share my design and ideas with you. If you have any questions, please feel free to email me.
Sincerely, Jason
northeastsnakes@verizon.net
CLICK HERE FOR A STEP-BY-STEP PICTURE GUIDE
TO BUILDING THE ABOVE SNAKE RACKS
FAQ’s (Frequently Asked Questions)
I’m frustrated with my current set-up! What can I do?
I’ve tried just about every method possible to house my reptiles. From glass aquariums to stacked containers, I’ve tried it all. I’m 31 years old and I’ve had 4 major abdominal surgeries & am simply unable to lift or move heavy enclosures. Plus, aquariums are not ideal if you have more than a few animals. For a while, I kept my reptiles in Sterilite containers, which I stacked on top of one another. This can be frustrating when you need to move containers around to access one on the bottom of the stack. Plus, removing lids is a pain. Furthermore, a stack of containers simply looks bad when you want to show your collection to friends & family. At one point, I dreaded having to clean & feed my snakes due to the time required. Caring for my reptiles is much more enjoyable now that I have an efficient rack system.
Heat Tape & Heating Questions and Answers
I get this question a lot. I heat my entire room using digitally-controlled heating system. The center of the room is slightly warmer than where the racks back up to the wall. Therefore, my snakes can still thermo-regulate to a small degree between warm and cool ends of their enclosures. I do not use heat tape simply because I do not feel safe using it. This is simply a personal choice. Many people use it safely & successfully. If you choose to use heat tape with your racks, just be sure to use a thermostat or have an experienced person do it for you.
What materials are used?
The design is simple. My racks are constructed using Pine 1×2″s and 1×3″s. The shelves are 1/4″ expanded PVC (also called PVCX), which I obtain from a local manufacturer. It is a similar material used for pipes in plumbing. However, expanded PVC is simply in sheet form & is mainly used to make signs, such as real estate/for-sale signs. There are several brand names for this material, such as Sintra or Komatex. I originally purchased it from USPlastics.com, but it was too costly having it shipped & it did not arrive in the best shape. USPlastics.com has good information on the properties of this material if you’d like to learn more about it. I get a lot of e-mails about where to look for PVCX…my suggestion….start in the phone book under plastics. I purchase pvcx locally from a company called E&T Plastics.
Why not simply buy a commercially made reptile rack?
Commercial reptile racks are expensive & start at approximately $340.00 (and priced as high as $3000.00). For racks starting at $340, add about $100 for ten containers plus another $60 for shipping. This now brings the price of 1 rack up to about $500.00!!! Plus, if you have to buy the tubs, you’ll need to make holes in all of them, which takes time. Once your reptile collection starts to grow, you’ll quickly need a decent rack system that is affordable and allows for easy access & easy cleaning. I respect the professional caging manufacturers and would highly recommend that you consider all of your options before making any decisions. I personally could not afford to purchase a large number of manufactured racks when I needed them, so I made the decision to custom-build them myself. I hope to help those that can’t afford a $500 rack.
How long does it take to build the rack?
Aside from the driving time it takes to obtain materials, anywhere from 2 – 4 hours per rack to build. Add another few hours to make holes in all the Sterilite containers. Additional time is necessary for the wood portion of the rack to settle and adjust to varying temperatures. This can take a few days. There is always a learning curve and typically your worst rack will be your first one built.
Can it be modified for other tub sizes?
YES! At this time, I only have rack plans for 32 quart Sterilite containers. I feel confident with the design of this rack, especially since it’s what I currently use for my own collection. I have designed similar racks for other size tubs, including 16 qt (for yearling dwarf boas & ball pythons) & 64 qt Sterilites for arboreal species. I am currently in the process of building several 41 qt racks. I have even used PVCx to design an incubator, which has successfully worked. PVCx is a great material to work with. If you are interested in a rack to accommodate different sizes or brands of tubs (i.e. Rubbermaid), you can probably use the same basic design.
Does the rack sag?
To put it simply…NO! I have NOT had any problems with sagging. However, I suppose it could potentially be a problem if you do not have containers in every shelf. In other words, do not leave any slots empty. I also add extra support to the bottom shelf, which helps too. Also, there may be some give with the pine wood, especially if temperatures shift, but I try my best to minimize or prevent this by allowing the wood to settle
Building vs Buying
Apr 20th
More info from the Green Iguana Society. This was written in regards to iguana habitats but it holds true for cages in general. Good insights into the Building verses Buying debate. Check out the rest of their site here Green Iguana Society .
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| If you are like most people, chances are your iguana needs a better habitat. Most likely, your iguana needs a habitat that is much larger than the one it currently has, and now you must decide the best way to get it what it needs. On this page, we’ll be discussing the pros and cons of building your own or buying a complete habitat. You basically have three choices: buy one that is already made, have someone you know build one, or build it yourself. First of all, make sure you learn all you can about what type of habitat your iguana needs. Once you learn what your iguana needs, buying or building a habitat will be easier, and you won’t end up with a habitat that you’ll need to replace later on. Most iguana owners end up going through several different habitats because they are still learning, and they discover later on that they should have done something different. Whether you’re building your own or buying a custom built habitat, learn all you can before you decide, and try to do it right the first time.
Buying a custom habitat – Although it may sound like the best way to go, buying a ready made cage or habitat usually isn’t the best way to go, unless you have a lot of money. Even then, you can end up with a habitat that isn’t the best for your iguana. There are many custom habitats and cages available, and most generally, they are very expensive and often times far too small for an adult iguana. There are only a few places that sell habitats for iguanas that are of suitable size. If you can afford one of these and do not want to venture into building your own, then by all means, buy one, but make sure it’s of suitable size and functionality for your iguana. Your iguana will get LARGE and it will definitely need a large habitat, unless of course you plan on allowing your iguana to be a free roamer. If you are allowing your iguana to be a free roamer, it can also be a good idea to have a habitat of some sort for your iguana to retreat to, if needed. If this is the case, you may be able to get away with providing a somewhat smaller habitat, but it still needs to be quite large. For more information on free roaming and setting up your home for a free roaming iguana, please visit our Freedom & Free Roaming section. If you do decide to look into buying a custom-made enclosure, the web sites listed below may be useful:
Custom Wood Reptile Cages – http://customwoodreptilecages.com Cages By Design – http://www.cagesbydesign.com Keith van Zile: Lizard Cages.com – http://www.lizardcages.com J.Worlds Unique Reptile and Rainforest Enclosures – http://www.jworlds.net/ (WAY expensive, but really cool) Size is critical – Most importantly, size will be the most important factor when choosing a habitat. Unfortunately, there are many types of cages and enclosures that are sold as “iguana cages” and chances are, they are far too small to be a permanent home for your iguana. Not only are these cages too small for an adult iguana, they are usually quite affordable. This is yet another form of misinformation about iguana care that leads to many iguanas being kept in inadequate habitats, which will most definitely lead to unhealthy and unhappy iguanas. You may be able to “get by” with a smaller cage, but ultimately, the health and happiness of the iguana will suffer. An iguana in a habitat that is too small will be stressed, which can lead to restlessness, nose rubbing and other injuries that are caused by the iguana trying to get out of a small enclosure. You can also get by with a smaller habitat while the iguana is a juvenile and still growing. Going through several habitats throughout the life of the iguana is normal for most iguana owners. If you do it right the first time and buy or build a habitat that is large enough for an adult iguana, you may spend more money now, but the habitat should last your iguana’s lifetime. Cost of a good habitat – It will cost a good amount of money for a suitable habitat. Going through several habitats, either built or bought, will become even more expensive than building or buying a LARGE habitat as early as possible. If you’re buying a habitat, be prepared to spend a great deal of money on one that is large enough for an adult iguana. You’ll probably have a very hard time even finding one large enough, and if you do find one that’s big enough, it will be very expensive. Also, most habitats that you buy do not come with light fixtures, switches, dimmers, and other accessories you may need. If you can’t afford to buy a habitat that is large enough for your iguana, then we definitely recommend that you build your own. Building your own can be much more affordable, but it will still be expensive. Depending on the materials you use, you’ll probably end up spending at least $150 (U.S.) building your own. Chances are, you’ll spend more than that, but it will usually cost much less than a pre-built one of the same size and quality. Building your own habitat – The best part of building your own habitat is that not only will your iguana have what it needs, you can build it exactly how you want it. Once again, you can usually build your own for much less than a pre-built one. Of course, you can also build one that costs much more, but chances are, it will be very nice and well worth the money in the long run. With building your own, you can also make use of exactly the amount of space in your home you’d like to give to your iguana. Many pre-built habitats come in a variety of sizes and colors, but if you build your own, you can make it exactly the size you want, as well as build it to become a decorative and attractive addition to your home. Do tools intimidate you? If you have absolutely no experience with tools, carpentry, electrical work, and building things, then buying a habitat may be the way to go. You may also want to try to get the help of a friend who does have more experience. More times than not, iguana owners end up learning about iguanas as well as carpentry and electrical work. Many iguana owners who had no experience with carpentry are now seasoned pros after building their own habitat. If you do have little or no experience with building things, you will also have the added expense and worry of having or buying the tools you will need to build a habitat. If you have few or no tools, you’ll either need to find a friend that will loan you some basic tools or you’ll have to buy your own. You can literally spend a fortune on high quality tools, but you can also buy inexpensive hand tools, especially if you don’t plan on using them for anything else. Conclusion – If you are planning on getting a new habitat for your iguana, then this is going to be a big decision to make…to buy or build. We would like to suggest that building your own is the best way to go. If you have experience with carpentry, electrical work and building things, then this should be a very easy decision. If you have little or no experience, we suggest that you find a friend that does have some experience and tools to help you. Whatever you decide, we can not stress it enough…. learn all you can about what your iguana needs, make sure you provide a LARGE habitat, and if at all possible, try to do it right the first time so you don’t end up building or buying several habitats throughout the life of your iguana. For more information and what kind of work is involved with building your own habitat, please visit our Planning & Construction page. |
Iguana Habitat
Apr 20th
Info from the Green Iguana Society. We’ve never dealt with them personally but they seem to have some very accurate and reliable information on their site including a list of iguanas available for adoption. Definitely check them out here Green Iguana Society .
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Heat/Lighting – Iguanas need an enclosure or habitat that is kept very warm. Temperatures under basking lights should be in the low to middle 90’s (Fahrenheit), and the ambient air temperature surrounding your iguana should be no lower than 80ºF. Within the cage, a range of temperatures should be provided so that your iguana can regulate its body temperature by moving back and forth between cooler and warmer areas. Daytime heat is best provided with incandescent light bulbs.
Hot rocks are not recommended for iguanas! Not only are hot rocks inadequate in providing heat, but they are dangerous. There have been numerous cases of iguanas obtaining serious burns from hot rocks. Heat and light should come from above, since in the wild iguanas bask in the sunlight. Ordinary incandescent light bulbs work great to provide both heat and light. You do not need to purchase expensive “basking bulbs” from the pet store. These are no different than ordinary bulbs. What wattage of bulbs you will need depends upon the ambient air temperature of the room and the size of the enclosure or basking area. Do not guess when it comes to temperature! It is imperative that you install a few good, reliable thermometers at various places in the enclosure to give you an accurate temperature readout. You can also hook up dimmer switches to your lights, which will allow for minute temperature adjustment. Hooded clamp fixtures work well for basking lights, come in a variety of sizes and can be positioned in various ways within an enclosure. Be sure to use fixtures that are designed to accommodate the bulb wattage you are using. If you are using high wattage bulbs (150-250W), you must use a fixture with a ceramic socket to prevent fire hazard. Be sure to place the fixtures in such a position that your iguana cannot climb on or touch them. If you place the fixtures inside the enclosure, it is a good idea to add a wire “bulb guard”, such as you see in the photo below, to prevent your iguana from coming into direct contact with hot bulbs. Bulb guards can be made from hardware cloth or other safe types of wire. If you have a smaller iguana that is likely to climb up on and/or cling to the light fixtures, consider placing the fixtures outside of the enclosure. |
 This simple bulb guard was made from a small piece of hardware cloth, which is held in place by the simple guard that came with the fixture. The edges of the wire have been bent under so that no sharp edges are exposed. |
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Nighttime heat – Like all other animals, iguanas must have a day/night cycle. We recommend a 12:12 or a 13:11 cycle. This means that you must shut your iguana’s lights off at night for 12 or 13 hours, or better yet, have them on a timer that turns them off at night and on again in the morning so you do not have to remember to do it. This allows the iguana to regulate behaviors and rest peacefully when necessary. Not providing a day/night light cycle can stress an iguana, causing behavioral changes such as feeding, pooping and unnecessary aggression. Iguanas can and should have cooler temperatures at night, but they still need ambient air temperatures to fall no lower than 75-78ºF. How then, do you provide heat at night, if you use light bulbs to heat the enclosure? There are a few methods of providing nighttime heat. One of the best is to use Ceramic Heat Emitters (CHEs), which screw into an incandescent light fixture and give off only heat, not light. These are available in different wattages. It is possible to have a set up where the lights come on in the morning and turn off at night, and the CHEs come on at night and turn off in the morning. Another possibility is to use a low wattage CHE 24 hours a day in addition to the daytime lights. Since iguanas can and should have cooler temperatures at night, a CHE of the appropriate wattage should provide adequate nighttime warmth.
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A word of caution about CHEs – they get very hot and can be fire hazards and/or dangerous to your iguana if not used correctly. Be sure to use them only in fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets, and keep them away from dry wood or fabrics that are flammable. Be sure to place them in a way that will not allow your iguana to come in contact with them, because their surfaces get very hot and can cause severe burns. Use only the appropriate extension cords that can handle the amount of wattage you plan to plug into them. A CHE can be an efficient and safe source of heat for your iguana, but only if you use them properly. Be sure to read all of the directions and cautionary statements supplied by the manufacturer. Be safe, use your common sense, and above all, be careful – not only with CHEs, but with other heating and lighting devices as well.
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| Internally-ballasted MV Bulbs: Pros
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Internally-ballasted MV Bulbs: Cons
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| Heat & UVB in one fixture – convenient.
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A bit more expensive than traditional tubes. Cost is usually around $45 each.
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| Give off higher levels of UVB than tubes.
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Can produce too much heat when used in smaller enclosures – especially the spot bulbs.
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| May enhance your iguana’s green coloring and appetite (this is based solely on anecdotal evidence).
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Have a high burn-out rate. The bulbs are fragile and break if jostled. Bulbs are guaranteed, but returning broken bulbs can be a hassle.
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| UVB travels further from the bulb, so they work better for larger enclosures and free-roaming iguanas.
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The spot bulbs give off higher levels of UVB that travels a further distance, but the area covered by the bulb is less. Iguanas must stay directly under the bulbs. The flood bulbs cover a greater area.
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| Externally-ballasted MV Bulbs: Pros
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Externally-ballasted MV Bulbs: Cons
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| Longer-lasting with a lower failure rate than internally-ballasted MV bulbs.
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More expensive than traditional tubes and internally-ballasted MV bulbs. Cost is usually around $75 each.
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| Give off higher levels of UVB than tubes.
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Do not give off heat. A separate heat source is required.
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| Can be used in smaller enclosures due to low heat output.
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Not as widely available or as easy to find at this time as traditional tubes and internally-ballasted MV bulbs.
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| Traditional Fluorescent Tubes: Pros
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Traditional Fluorescent Tubes: Cons
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| A bit cheaper per bulb than MV bulbs.
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Should be doubled-up for best results, thus bringing cost closer to that of interally-ballasted MV bulbs. Two tubes will usually cost around $30-$45.
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| Can be used in smaller enclosures where an internally-ballasted MV bulb may produce too much heat.
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Produce much less UVB than MV bulbs. Plus, because fluorescent tubes do not produce heat, additional heat bulbs are necessary.
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| Have a lower burn-out rate than internally-ballasted MV bulbs.
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Do not work well in cheap fluorescent fixtures. High-end fixtures are necessary for maximum UVB output.
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| Come in different lengths to fit different enclosures.
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The UVB does not travel far; thus it is necessary that the bulb is positioned no more than 12″-15″ from the iguana.
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This photo shows one way to increase the humidity in an enclosure. An ordinary drier duct is attached over the outlet of a cool-mist humidifier with duct tape, and the mist from the humidifier then enters directly into the enclosure through the duct. This simple set-up raises the humidity in the enclosure by as much as 20%. |
| Conclusion – There are a variety of enclosure designs that will be equally successful at providing your iguana with what it needs – proper heating, lighting, and humidity. What materials, design and heating/lighting devices you choose to use will depend upon the size of the enclosure or habitat, the placement of the enclosure, the surrounding room temperatures, and so on. For ideas on how to decide whether to build or buy, how to go about choosing the best building materials, and how to actually put it all together, visit our Building vs. Buying page, and the Planning and Construction page. If you have more than one iguana, visit our Multiple Iguanas page for a discussion on the pros and cons of housing two or more iguanas together. Thinking about building an outdoor cage? Check out the Outdoor Sunning Cages page. |
Water Dragon Fact Sheet
Feb 18th
Melissa Kaplan is one our favorites! Read her article at Water Dragons
Species, Range and Description
P. cocincinus. Eastern and southeastern Thailand, eastern Indochina, southern China.
P. lesueurii. Eastern/southeastern Australia (Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria)
Water dragons are native to the Southeast Asian mainland and Indo-Australian archipelago. Most imports arrive from Thailand or southern China.
Males typically reach 3 feet; females are somewhat smaller. Males develop larger heads, jowls and crest on the back of the neck, and their femoral pores are somewhat larger than on the female.
Always have new animals checked by a vet for internal and external parasites (bring a fresh fecal sample if you can – or get one to the vet at the soonest opportunity), hydration, nutritional status and overall health.
Captive Environment
You will need a large enclosure, one larger than most people think will be needed by a lizard of this size. The reason most are missing much of their faces, rubbed off from the snout back past the front teeth, is that water dragons will literally rub their flesh off and break their jaw bones trying to get out of a too small enclosure. They need space at least 2 x their total length – so you are talking min 6 ft long (side to side), at least 2-3 feet deep and 4-6 feet high to do it right.
Water dragons can be kept together, with one to three males in a room-sized enclosure. Some females can be domineering and may not want any other females around…others can co-habit with 3-4 females. You must monitor them all the time to assure all are feeding and basking properly throughout the year. If any aren’t, you are most likely seeing the results of intimidation and will need to increase the number of basking and feeding areas and/or increase enclosure size or separate them.
Water dragons are semi-arboreal but also need enough water to submerge and swim comfortably in, as well as branches for climbing, and plenty of ground area for roosting and feeding. They also need the appropriate thermal gradients, photoperiods, and a UVB light.
Substrate
Mixture of 2/3 peat soil + 1/3 clean sand with areas of bark. Can also keep on fake Astroturf. Very active digestive systems so lots of messy poop if they don’t go in their water.
Branches
Placed on the diagonal for climbing, horizontal for roosting.
Plants
Suggestions for suitable live plants include dragon plants (Dracaena), pothos (Scindapsus aureus), Ficus benjamina trees, Monstera deliciosa (philodendron) and staghorn ferns. Plants will need to be replaced as they are shredded by claws or eaten.
Temperature
Day time: 84-88 F with drop to 75-80 F at night. Must have a basking area going up to 90 F during day at one side of tank. Use thermometers! No hot rocks – use overhead basking lights and an under-tank heat pad or one under the indoor/outdoor carpeting substrate.
UVB Lighting
Must have direct sun or a suitable UVB-producing fluorescent (Vitalite by Durotest or Zoo Med’s 5.0+ Iguana or Reptile lights). Plant grow lights do not produce UVB and most so-called ‘full spectrum” lights do not either. Must produce wavelengths in the 290-320 nm range.
Water
Must be available at all times for full body immersions up to at least 1/2 their height. Must be cleaned and disinfected daily…two days okay if they don’t poop in it! If they dive into their water from a shelf or branch, you need to make the tub deeper so they do not injure themselves.
Feeding
Hatchlings and Juveniles:
2-3 week old crickets which have been previously gut-loaded (e.g., not right from pet store!) Also offer finely chopped vegetables and fruits (see iguana salad ingredients for a healthy salad). As the dragons grow, offer only slightly bigger crickets, and add in some mealworms and baby (‘pink’) mice, and occasionally a waxworm for a treat. Smaller food items are more nutritious and more efficiently digested than fewer bigger items. Feed every 2 days – or oftener if they look hungry.
Adults:
Small mice, 4 week old crickets, kingworms (Zoophoba) as well as plant matter. Feed every 2-3 days – or oftener if they look hungry. Also feed plant matter, such as greens and fruits (see iguana salad for recipe).
Miscellaneous Care Issues
Claw tips may be clipped. For how to do it, read the document claw trimming in the iguana page.
Water dragons, like sailfin lizards, can be held but they do not like to be clasped. Hold gently with your hand held loosely cupped around them.
Common Ailments in Captivity – caused by captive environment
Abscesses – infections due to injuries or stress
Internal Parasites (filthy import and pet trade conditions) (see below)
Metabolic Bone Disease (Calcium Deficiency due to- poor diet, inadequate UVB and/or heat
Rostral/Snout Damage – too small an enclosure
Stomatitis (Mouthrot) – snout damage, systemic infection due to improper environment or stress
Swollen/Infected Limbs – fractures due to MBD or getting caught in inappropriate tank setups.
Articular/Periarticular/Pseudo Gout – improper foods and insufficient hydration
Respiratory Infection – inadequate heat; stress
Gastroenteritis – protozoan, bacterial or worm infections (see below)
Diet-related Parasitic and Protozoan Infections
Gastrointestinal parasites may inhabit the mouth, coming from infected prey or from regurgitated prey that brings up parasites from lower down in the intestinal tract. The parasites live out parts of their life cycle within the intermediate or primary host, taking up residence in and migrating through different organs and systems. Many such parasites come from fish and amphibians that are used by the parasite as intermediate hosts during their life cycle. Some of these parasites, such as Rhabdias spp. may cause abscesses within the mouth or may migrate to the lungs. These are commonly found in garter snakes (Thamnophis spp.), grass snakes (Natrix spp.), and water snakes (Nerodia spp.), and other reptile species fed primarily on fish. The reptiles themselves may be treated with levamisole at 10 mg/kg sq. Feeder fish may also be treated, left to swim for 24 hours in a gallon of water mixed with 250 mg of levamisole.
Protozoan infections due to amoebæ is a problem world-wide and can cause serious health complications and mortality, including in captive reptiles. The cysts are ingested either through eating an infected reptile’s feces or that of some other infected animal, such as wastes from feeder animals. Once in the gastrointestinal tract, the amoebæ become active (trophozoites), and start reproducing by binary fusion. They start invading the mucosal lining of the GI tract, get into the blood, and spread through out the body through tissues and organs. Some trophozoitesr are transformed into cysts which are then excreted in the feces, awaiting to be ingested by another host. Fecal smears are required to visualize cysts and trophozoites; cysts can be found using fecal flotation, with fecal samples containing mucous or blood being the most likely to contain the cysts.
An interesting note… The most common – and pathogenic – amoeba in reptiles is Entamoeba invadens. Some reptiles (crocodiles, box turtles, garter snake, Northern black racer) may serve as a reservoir for this protozoan, carrying it and spreading cysts through their feces but not themselves showing any signs of illness. Certain reptile families seem to be particularly susceptible to dysentery from E. invadens infections (boids, crotalids, elapids, viperids, varanids), with giant tortoises as water snakes being most susceptible. This can be a problem in captive collections where enclosures are set up to house aquatic or terrestrial turtles and semi-aquatic or terrestrial lizards, such as sliders and water dragons. Accurate amoeba identification is essential as other amoebæ are not pathogenic in reptiles. If a fecal sample is not available, a colonic wash may be used to acquire a specimen for testing.
Postmortem exams of reptiles killed by E. invadens and other pathogenic amoebæ reveal inflammation, ulceration, or necrosis of the gastrointestinal tract or colon. The intestinal wall may be thickened with necrotic membranes. The bowel may be so involved that it is apparent that ingesta was not passed through in some time, which would be consistent with antemortem wasting, anorexia, and bloating. If spread through the blood stream, the liver, kidneys and other organs may contain abscesses, necrotic areas, and evidence general inflammation.
Amoebic infections are treatable once they are identified as such and the infection is detected and treatment started before tissue and organ damage is advanced. Maintaining proper environmental temperatures, exercising proper hygiene and quarantine procedures, and ensuring the infected reptiles are adequately hydrated will help increase survival rates.
Substrates for Reptiles
Feb 18th
Another article from Melissa Kaplan. Substrates for Reptiles
Substrates commonly used in reptile enclosures include those in the list below. Some of these substrates are inappropriate for some reptiles. Some are inappropriate for all reptiles and are included here so that you will be forewarned against buying them despite pet store recommendations and the implied or explicit wording on product packaging and advertisements.
Substrates should not be collected in the wild as the soil, leaves, sand, gravel, etc., may contain organisms that are harmful to your reptile. Even if you don’t use herbicides and pesticides in your yard, these chemicals are transported through the air as both dry and wet deposits, and so contaminate soil, leaves, and the woody parts of plants, even those at some distance from the point of application.
Particulate substrates, even when made from “natural” or “biodegradable” products such as plant fibers, should not be used for any lizard who smells with its tongue. Particles become stuck to the tongue and are swallowed. Over time, they may build up in the gut causing a serious, even fatal, impaction.
Particulate substrates can be problematic for both snakes and lizards as it can become stuck to their hemipenes or everted cloacal tissues when they are defecating, being taken up into the cloaca when the tissue or hemipenes are retracted. This can cause injury and/or infection.
Some fine particulates may get into the eyes of lizards who have no moveable eyelids, causing irritation, injury, serious infection, or even blinding them. Small, sharp particulates may also scratch the protective covering of snake’s eyes, which in turn may lead to infection.
Sometimes, the most convenient substrate is not the best substrate for the reptile. Many substrates are being marketed towards specific species even though they have demonstrated track records of causing serious illness, even death, for those species.
Naturalistic habitats may look natural and pleasing, but they are missing the key elements that allow the habitat to work in the wild. There are no decomposers, those invertebrates and microorganisms that do the work breaking down and recycling plant and animal wastes. This means that even naturalistic habitats must be regularly cleaned, including any plants that are contaminated with feces. When deciding whether to go with a naturalistic set up or a more artificial setup, keep in mind the greater amount of time, effort, and expense it will take to keep naturalistic environments clean and in control.
Sands
Fine Beach Sand
Available at aquarium stores or aquarium sections of large pet stores. May cause problems with reptiles who may pick up the fine grains with their tongues when lick-smelling or whose hemipenes or cloacal tissue are everted during defecation. To some extent, all sand carries this risk.
Playground Sand
When bought new (available in 50 lb. bags from hardware stores and large toy stores such as Toys R Us) this is a clean, medium-sized, rounded grain with some variation in the size and color of the grains. A good, all-purpose choice. A good conductor of heat. Suitable for larger desert species. Wet foods should be offered on sand-free platters or shallow bowls, or the reptiles fed outside the enclosure in an empty or paper towel-lined enclosure. Please note, however, that hatchlings/neonates of desert species should be kept on non-particulate substrate for the first 3-6 months or so until they are big enough to not experience problems with the sand.
Silica Sand
These densely packed fine grains do not conduct heat as evenly as the coarser playground sand. They can generate dust that, along with the fine sand particles themselves, stick to eyes, tongue, and body. Should be avoided for most desert and all other species.
Gravel/Stones
Lava Rock
Not suitable for substrate or decoration. They are known to contain lead and so are frowned upon for use with any animal. In addition, they are extremely rough and can easily injure delicate skin and abrade shells, leading to bacterial and fungal infections.
Pea Gravel
Wash before using to remove dust. Good heat conductor. Generally used as the bottom layer to promote heat conduction and provide a bottom drainage layer when live plants and a soil top dressing is used.
Polished Stones
These are not suitable for substrate but may be used to add interest to naturalistic habitats. They may also be used to create, when securely glued together, decorative rocky walls and caves. They should not be used to create climbing walls for saxicolous lizards as they are too smooth for climbing. They can be used to form easily accessible “stepped” walls or outcroppings for climbing and basking. The problem with using them as a substrate is that they require copious amounts of water and time to thoroughly wash, disinfect, and rinse the disinfectant from them on a regular basis.
Wood and Paper Products
Bark
Orchid bark is available in plant nurseries. It is also being packaged and sold in pet stores for reptiles. While it is often used as the sole substrate, is it not a good conductor of heat, and is not comfortably burrowable by fossorial reptiles. It is not easily cleaned when kept with messy eaters or reptiles with wet fecal deposits and so must be frequently replaced. It is also ingested by some lizards and can cause serious, even fatal, impactions. Small amounts may be mixed in soil and sand substrates for reptiles for whom soil or sand is appropriate.
Butcher paper
Plain butcher paper may be used to line the bottom of enclosures. It is not particularly absorbent but is free of inks that may be harmful to reptiles. Large rolls may be purchased at restaurant supply stores.
Mulch
Cypress mulch is available in many areas. Used alone for some reptiles, it is also suitable for mixing with soil to lighten it and provide a more attractive mix. It cannot be cleaned and so has to be removed and replaced with fresh mulch when soiled.
Newspaper (printed)
Layers of newspaper have been used for years in animal keeping. It is relatively absorbent when several layers are used, and inexpensive to replace. However, colored inks are known to be harmful to animals, and there may also be problems with the plain black ink. (Cedar shavings were accepted as a safe bedding for years before it was discovered that the volatile oils caused skin, respiratory and reproductive system damage.) In an enclosed space, an animal who relies heavily on olfactory and tongue chemosensation may be overwhelmed by the pungent odors of the inks, even the new soy-based inks.
Newsprint paper (unprinted)
Unprinted sheets may be obtained at stores selling moving supplies, or roll ends may be obtained from some newspapers. As with printed newspaper, it is relatively absorbent when several sheets are used, especially when layered with paper towels. Unlike printed newspaper, the unprinted sheets and rolls are not impregnated with potentially harmful inks.
Paper towels
Easily obtained and relatively inexpensive, paper towels make an excellent substrate for reptiles with belly injuries and those in the early stages of quarantine.
Shavings
Aspen and pine shavings may be used for snakes and fossorial lizards. The shavings cannot be cleaned and so have to be removed and replaced with fresh shavings when soiled. At least once a month, all shavings should be removed and disposed of, and the entire enclosure cleaned and disinfected before new shavings are placed inside. Cedar shavings are toxic for all animals and should never be used in predator or prey enclosures. Cedar and redwood should not be used in constructing housing for any animal, nor in any furniture or paneling in a room in which any animals are housed.
Litters
General Precaution
Particulate litters are inappropriate for any lizard that uses its tongue for chemoreception. The litters become stuck to the tongue and are ingested. Even if such litters do not contain toxic chemicals, they may get stuck in the intestines, causing a rupture or impaction. They may also get stuck on everted hemipenes or cloacal tissue when the lizard defecates and so be taken up into the cloaca where they may cause injury or infection. Many litters are marketed as “natural” or “biodegradable;” some even claim to be “digestible” and “safe for use with reptiles.” They may be made of natural materials such as wood, corncob, nut shells, and plant fibers, but this does not mean that they will be safely broken down and/or passed through a reptilian digestive tract. While some small pieces may pass safely through the reptile, experienced reptile vets can attest to the fact that too many become lodged in the gut, requiring surgery to extract – if the impaction is caught before it is too late.
Alfalfa Pellets
While not technically a litter, these alfalfa-based rabbit and small mammal food pellets may be used as a substrate for some lizards. The problem with these pellets is that, like the walnut shell litter, they quickly decompose and grow bacteria and fungi when they are wetted by food, water, feces or urates. They are unsuitable for chelonians, who may develop gait irregularities and foot deformities from trying to keep their footing on the highly mobile pellets. They are rather rough for burrowing snakes and smaller lizards. They may be used with green iguanas and prehensile-tailed skinks as they will break down in the gut if eaten and so will not cause intestinal impactions so long as the lizard is drinking regularly and eating moistened food. The pellets must be cleaned out as soon as they are wetted, however, or they will decompose and create an unhealthful environment both for the lizards and the students.
Cat Litter
Many of the litters made for cats are toxic to other animals. They are also very dusty and can cause respiratory and eye infections. These litters are also very dehydrating and will cause skin and other problems for any animal kept on them.
Clay Litters
These litters are unsuitable for reptiles. When ingested, they can cause intestinal impactions.
Corn Cob Litter
Along with the risk of impaction and injury due to accidental ingestion or uptake, corn cob can abrade the mouth of reptiles setting up ideal conditions for mouth rot (ulcerative stomatitis) to start. Pieces may also become lodged in the glottis of smaller reptiles and cause death by asphyxiation. Bacterial and fungal growths resulting from cob wetted by food, water, urates, and feces are common with corn cob and may cause illness or skin infections in the reptiles.
Lizard/Reptile Litters
Most reptile litters are just plant or other pet litters repackaged and marketed to reptile owners. They are made of wood shavings or compressed wood fibers, compressed recycled paper fibers, processed plant fibers, or clay. They are no safer for reptiles than other animal litters made of the same materials.
Paper Litters
May cause intestinal impactions if ingested. The dust may cause respiratory and eye irritations and infections. At least one brand causes almost an immediate respiratory inflammation in prehensile-tailed skinks (Corusia zebrata).
Walnut Shell Litter (“Desert Sand”)
Largely nonabsorbent, these small, sharp particles are unsuitable due to the risk of injury and impaction if ingested. The litter provides a wonderful home for the bacteria and fungi that grow due to contamination of the litter by spilled food, water, urates, and feces.
Soils and Mosses
Sphagnum Moss
Sphagnum moss is suitable for use in parts of riparian, pondside, terrestrial and fossorial enclosures. It is moistened and kept damp to provide a microclimate of higher humidity. There have been some reports of animal keepers developing serious fungal infections from contact with spore-infected sphagnum moss. Moss should be periodically thoroughly dried out. It can be baked in a 250ºF (121ºC) for one hour.
Soil Collected from Outdoors
This is unsuitable for use unless you are taking some from where a wild-caught reptile was found and the reptile will only be kept for a day or two before being released at the site of capture. The soil and accompanying organic debris contains microorganisms, parasites, and environmental toxins that may be harmful to non-native species and to native species who have been in captivity for a long time.
Peat Moss / Potting Soil
This is soil or pulverized sphagnum moss that has been processed and sterilized. Bags of plain soil may be easily purchased at supermarkets, garden centers, building supply stores, and other stores with a large garden section. Read the packaging carefully to avoid buying those soils that have been mixed with fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides, vermiculite, or perlite. The latter two items may cause gut impactions if ingested, while the former are toxic to reptiles.
Spanish Moss
This may be wild-collected or purchased in garden supply stores. It should be baked (as described for sphagnum moss above) or frozen for at least one month to kill the chiggers that reside in it. As with sphagnum moss, it is suitable for use in small portions to provide microclimates or burrowable pockets for fossorial reptiles.
Carpeting
General Precaution
The glue used in most carpeting outgasses for several days, even weeks after installation. To ensure the safety of your reptiles, air out pieces that will be used in their enclosures for at least a week before installing it. When carpeting your home or school room, all animals, but especially birds and reptiles, should be removed to a safe location for 10-14 days until the rooms are completely aired out and toxic gasses dissipated. Even when using carpeting with special, environmentally friendly (less toxic, vastly reduced outgassing) backings, the animals should be removed for several days to let outgassing chemicals dissipate thoroughly.
Astroturf® / Artificial Grass
Astroturf® was the first artificial grass floor covering. Since then, carpet manufacturers have come out with many grades of artificial grass. Hardware stores and builder supply stores generally carry two or more grades. The least expensive is generally the best to use. It is more flexible, an important factor for thorough cleaning and disinfecting. The ragged cut edges may be folded under and basted to prevent fraying. Pieces can be washed and disinfected repeatedly before they require replacing. This substrate can be used for any terrestrial, arboreal, or fossorial reptile. It is cheap enough that several pieces can be cut for each enclosure and rotated each cleaning day. The pieces of artificial grass substrate sold in small, prepackaged pieces in many pet stores and mail order pet suppliers is the same as the product sold in builder supply stores.
Indoor/ Outdoor Carpeting
This product, also available at builder supply stores, looks more like indoor carpeting but is made for outdoor use as well. In its construction, it is more like the more rigid, more expensive grades of artificial grass and is difficult to clean and disinfect.
Household / Industrial Carpeting
With their deeper piles and very rigid backings, these carpets are difficult to clean and disinfect, and should be avoided for use as a substrate. They may be used to cover slick tubes or branches to create climbers for lizards (similar to cat trees made for cats).
Reptile Carpeting
These are fibrous, absorbent pads made in sizes to fit standard-sized enclosures. They wick the moisture away from the surface, but since most reptile deposits are solid feces rather than urates, this feature will not reduce cleaning time except for those species who deposit very dry, compact pellets. Expensive when compared to suitable household products.
Other Materials
Terry Cloth Towels
Terry cloth towels may be inexpensively obtained from thrift shops. They are easily cleaned and disinfected by machine washing in hot water, soap, and bleach. They are especially suited for reptiles in quarantine or with abdominal injuries.
Linoleum
Self-stick tiles may be inexpensively obtained from building supply stores. They may be grouted around the outside edges with aquarium silicone grout. Linoleum tiles are easily cleaned and disinfected and provide a durable flooring for large arboreal lizards and snakes.
Excerpt from Master’s Thesis Classroom Reptiles, Sonoma State University, Rohnert Park CA. 1997
Vitamin A Deficiency
Feb 17th
Excerpt from Vitamin A Deficiency in Reptiles
Symptoms of Vitamin A Deficiency:
The first symptom owners typically notice is swollen eyelids (especially in turtles) — this can become so pronounced that the eyes cannot be opened. Other symptoms include:
- Swelling around eyes and mouth
- Nasal discharge
- Stomatitis (inflammation of the lining of mouth)
- Weakness
- Loss of appetite; weight loss
- Decreased growth rate
- Can be fatal in severe cases
In addition, reptiles suffering from vitamim A deficiency can be more susceptible to skin and respiratory infections. A diet deficient in vitamin may also be lacking in other nutrients; metabolic bone disease my be seen along with vitamin A deficiency.
Treatment:
If your reptile is exhibiting symptoms of vitamin A deficiency, you should take your pet to a herp vet. Vitamin A deficiency is best treated if caught early — severe cases can leave lasting problems. A course of injectable or oral vitamin A may be prescribed, along with instituting dietary changes to prevent a recurrence. Any secondary infections or other nutrient deficiencies will also need to be treated.
Prevention:
Animals feed a healthy well balanced diet do not usually have problems with vitamin A levels. A healthy diet includes properly gut loading insect prey (especially with vegetables high in vitamin A), and supplementing with a multivitamin. Foods rich in vitamin A include apricots, broccoli leaves and flowerets, carrots, collard greens, dandelion greens (no pesticides or fertilizers!), kale, mustard greens, papaya, parsley, sweet potatoes, turnip greens, yellow squash. These are all good to offer to your feeder insects. Generally, a good reptile multivitamin should given as well: more on that below.
Vitamin Supplements – Type:
There is some controversy over the best form of vitamin A to provide. Because too much Vitamin A is also harmful, some experts recommend using a supplement with beta carotene rather than vitamin A; the body then converts beta carotene to the needed vitamin A. However, some animals are not able to make this conversion. For example, there is some evidence that chameleons are in this group so they can suffer vitamin A deficiency even if receiving a supplement. Choosing a supplement with vitamin A is likely fine as long as you do not overdo it.
Vitamin Supplements – How Often:
Your best bet is to discuss a supplementation schedule with your vet as requirements depend on age, body condition, reproductive status, etc. Still, little is knows about the specific amounts needed by our pets. Many experts recommend that a healthy adult reptile fed a varied, properly gut loaded diet only need a multivitamin once a week (calcium supplements more often), and juveniles every other feeding.
The Bottom Line:
Feeding your reptile a varied, healthy and well-balanced diet is the best way to prevent a deficiency in vitamin A. If you suspect your reptile is suffering from any sort of deficiency or illness, please see a vet as quickly as possible.
Reptile Lighting
Feb 17th
Article taken from Reptile Lighting ©1996 Melissa Kaplan
You may not be getting what you think you are buying…
Any incandescent bulb is fine for heat (for night time, you want dark light, such as the Nocturnal light by Energy Savers Unlimited or a ceramic heating element). The technology (tungsten filament vs. the gases and coatings used in fluorescents) doesn’t produce UVB, and only marginal UVA (which is the wavelengths in between UVB and visible light).
“Full spectrum” is a term now used rather loosely. It can mean “produces UVB, UVA, visible light and infrared [the wavelengths longer than those in the spectrum we can see (visible light) but the reality is that manufacturers of incandescents are calling their bulbs 'full spectrum' to lull people into thinking they are getting UVB (and thus buying their product) when they are not. UVB lighting manufacturers are calling their UVB-producing fluorescents "full spectrum" because they produce the full spectrum of visible light (Gehrmann, Reptile Lighting: a current perspective, 1997).
Incandescents are fine to use alone for heat for herps that don't require UVB, such as snakes; nocturnal lizards; diurnal lizards from more northerly or temperate climes who do well with minimal UVB obtained from occasional exposure to natural sun when handled outside the enclosure; some chelonians, such as mud-dwelling common musk turtles [Sternotherus odoratus]; and amphibians. UVB-producing fluorescents emitting sufficient UVB for the species must be used in conjunction with incandescent and other heat sources for all other diurnal lizards and all chelonians who require UVB exposure.
What’s the difference between a WIDE Spectrum and a FULL Spectrum light?
Ahhhh….welcome to the Madison Avenue and the non-regulated pet product industry where accuracy never gets in the way of making product claims! Because there are no truth-in-advertising regulations covering pet products, manufacturers can be as misleading as they like. Like the ‘iguana approved’ reptile bark and litter products: keep your iguana on them and your iguana will be facing impactions, surgery, even death. Manufacturers and pet stores don’t care: by the time that happens, they’ve already made their money off you.
It used to be that ‘full spectrum’ lighting meant lights which produced both ultraviolet B, ultraviolet A and the full visible spectrum as well infrared heat. Once incandescent manufacturers figured out that people were being told to look for ‘full spectrum’ lighting, they started to market their wide spectrum incandescent lights (producing some, but not all of the visible wavelengths and no ultraviolet wavelengths) with the words ‘full spectrum’ in the ads and on packaging. Thus people who buy Chromalux, NeoWhite and Reptile incandescent lights think, incorrectly, that they are providing UVB and UVA as well as the full visible wavelengths and heat to their reptiles. In fact, incandescents are just producing, if they are putting out bright white light, only the visible spectrum; some types of lights (such as the Chromalux) are not necessarily even producing the full visible spectrum, being corrected to increase or reduce certain parts of the visible spectrum.
Fluorescent light manufacturers weren’t slow to get on this bandwagon, either – unfortunately, not all fluorescents produce UVB wavelengths, either… They are shielded to reduce the dangers to humans (and their fabrics) or permit so little UVB to pass through that it isn’t sufficient to promote adequate previtamin D formation, resulting in a reptile with metabolic bone disease.
When is 6% more than 10%?
The problems with truth in advertising goes beyond the misleading use of the term “full-spectrum”. When it comes to UVB-producing fluorescents, the percentages given are not particularly useful as the manufacturers rarely tell you what that is a percentage of. If you have a light producing, for example, 20% of its total wavelengths in the UV range, and of that 10% is in the needed UVB range, while another light produces 40% of its wavelengths in the UV range, with 6 percent of that in the UVB needed range, the product with 6% of the 40% is going to produce more UVB in the needed UVB range than the other product. The product with “10%” on the package may look like the better light than the one that says “6%”, but it isn’t if that “10%” isn’t providing enough UVB for your reptile.
Quick Index to Tables
The following tables are based on tables by lighting specialist William H. Gehrmann, in Evaluation of Artificial Lighting (in Reptile Medicine and Surgery, 1996, edited by Douglas Mader DVM):
1. Table of UV and Visible Light
2. Table of UV Transmission through Typical Caging Materials
3. Fluorescents Producing UVB
1. REPRESENTATIVE LIGHT SOURCES AND THEIR PRINCIPAL TYPES OF RADIATION
Note: Wavelengths responsible for conversion of 7-dehydrocholesterol to cholecalciferol: 280-315nm
SOURCE
RADIATION
Sun
UVB 290-320 nm, UVA 320-400 NM, Visible 400-700 NM, Infrared >700 NM
Incandescents (frosted, reflector floods, spots, halogen lamps
UVA 320-400 NM (low levels), Visible 400-700 NM, Infrared >700 NM
Fluorescents:
Chroma 50, Colortone 50, Design50, Cool White, Warm White
Visible 400-700 NM
UVB 280-320 NM (low levels), UVA 320-400 NM (low levels)
Plant lights
Emphasize red and blue spectrums within Visible 400-700 NM
Blacklights (BL)
UVB 290-320 NM (low levels similar to Vita-Lite), UVA 320-400 NM
Blacklight Blue (BLB)
Same as BL but with less blue light emitted; reported harmful to eyes
Sun lamps, Germicidal Lamps, Phototherapy lamps
High levels of UVB causes skin cancer, cataracts, etc.
Other UV Sources:
High Intensity Discharge Mercury, Metal Halide
Visible 400-700 NM, Infrared >700 NM; UVA and UVB are shielded due to extensive damage to skin and eyes caused by such high intensity
Mercury vapor combo heat/UV product
Extremely high output of UVA and UVB posing health hazards to humans and reptiles in typical home setting
2. TRANSMISSION OF UV RADIATION THROUGH VARIOUS MATERIALS
MATERIAL
% UVA
% UVB
Window glass, single thick
78
5
Acrylite GP acrylic, 0.635 cm
6
0
Acrylite OP-4 acrylic, .318 cm
89
79
UV-T Plexiglas, .635 cm
89
64
Cellulose triacetate
67
30
Galvanized mesh, .318 cm (0.13″)
67
71
Galvanized mesh 1.270 cm (0.5″)
82
83
3. So, what lights do produce UVB?
(Please be sure to read the comments on the indicated lights.) The following are in alphabetical order only; those underlined are your best choices:
*
Blacklights( BL Blacklights; not blue or black incandescent light bulbs*)
* DayCycle (TetraTerrafaun)
* Iguana Light and Reptile Light (Zoo Med)ƒ
* Lumichrome 1XX Full Spectrum Fluorescent Plus
* Repti-Glo, Sun-Glo (Hagen)
* Repti-Sun (Zoo Med; replaced by their newer Iguana and Reptile Lights)ƒ
* Reptile Daylight (Fluorescent; by ESU)#
* Reptile-D Light (National Biological)+
* Ott Light (available in Europe – Vita-Lite makes a comparable product)
* Vita-Lite (Fluorescent tubes, not compacts; made by Durotest)
# Iguana owners have been reporting onset of MBD within ~6 months of using the early version of ESU’s UVB tube despite proper diet and vitamin and calcium supplementation, and who had not before exhibited any signs of metabolic bone disease. In the past couple of years, they have come out with a higher output (“7%”) light; I have not heard of any problems reported with the new “7%” tube.
* BLB lights have been reported to cause eye diseases and should be avoided.
+ Lights producing more than 5% UVB carry warnings on them relating to damage to human eyes. I’ve been unable to track down my reference on this (supposedly from OSHA regs, but folks I’ve talked to at OSHA can’t find it) and the more I dig into UV lighting “specs” the more murk I find. According to an “independent” analysis Zoo Med had done, the Reptile-D light does not in fact produce 5% UVB, it produces slightly less than the Zoo Med 5.0 light (4.84 vs 5.02). What is interesting is Zoo Med’s fact sheet that states “It is Zoo Med’s opinion that UVB bulbs that exceed 5% total energy output should not be sold [to] the general public (emphasis theirs).” So, on the one hand, they “prove” that their lights are better than the Reptile-D light because they produce more UVB than the Reptile-D, but at the same time theirs exceeds (true, by a very slight amount) their own safety recommendations. They also go on to say that, “just as you would not stare at the sun, never stare for any length of time directly within 12″ of a UVB bulb.” To date, no pet manufacturer has made goggles for lizards to protect their eyes from staring at high UV output sources…which is why UV-tubes made for the tanning industry should never be used.
ƒ Zoo Med periodically changes the names and packaging on their lights. Their “Iguana” light is identical to their “Reptile” light, other than the packaging. Some pet stores sell the Iguana or the Reptile tubes for more than the other, even though Zoo Med’s wholesale price is the same for the two products. The Reptile and Iguana tubes are interchangeable and can be used for any species that needs such a product.
Observations in studies on vitamin D3 indicate that very high output (VHO) bulbs may cause a form metabolic bone disease, the very condition one is trying to avoid through the use of UVB lighting, by causing a sort of overdose of systemic D3. If you are going to use these high output bulbs, including mercury vapor products such as ActiveUV and Zoo Med’s new PowerSUN, have your reptile’s blood and eyes checked regularly. Remember that, in the wild, iguanas aren’t in direct sunlight all day long, but thermoregulate by moving frequently into the shade. So, just because a UVB-producing fluorescent doesn’t provide the same amount of UVB as the sun does at the equator or elsewhere in the iguana range, the iguanas don’t need the amount that pours down on the forests and ground in the tropics. Given that they do quite well in captivity with properly positioned and annually replaced Zoo Med’s reptile or iguana, and Durotest’s Vita-Lite tubes, fluorescents, the fact that these products produce less than the sun at the equator is a moot point. It simply doesn’t matter in terms of your being able to provide adequate UVB in captivity.
I also suggest you read Anne Marsden’s new article which summarizes the research into UVB and D3, Sunlight and Reptile UVB Tubes: The Value of UVB Exposure.
Related Articles
Neodymium Lights
Musings on UV and D3…
Comparison of the UV-B [Lights] With Natural Sunlight
UV Lighting – General Information
ZooMeds Claims (note that the charts are too small to accurately read how much UVB produced at each nm)
UV-lamps for terrariums: Their spectral characteristics and efficiency in promoting vitamin D3 synthesis by UVB irradiation