Unique Cages for Unique Pets
Posts tagged Cages
$25 Off Coupon
Dec 3rd
Is a new cage on your Christmas list? Take advantage of our $25 Off deal between now and Dec 31st 2011. Just enter “$25 Off” in the coupon code box before checking out. Happy Holidays!
Bearded Dragons Cage – Controlling the Temperature
May 23rd
by Florian Ross
Beardies require a temperature gradient in their enclosures because they can’t regulate their body temperatures like. They have to thermo regulate, which means that they have to move between areas of differing temperatures in order to regulate their internal temperature.
To produce heat and a basking spot in your enclosure, you can use either a ceramic heat emitter, a reptile basking light (red, blue or white) or just a plain old household light bulb.
The best fixture for any of these choices is a porcelain dome light fixture. This type of fixture is a must with a ceramic heat emitter due to the amount of heat they produce. The temperature for this basking spot you created should be around 110 degrees Fahrenheit for juveniles and can be around 95 degrees for adults.
Your Beardie will also need an area to cool down if he gets too warm. At the opposite end of the tank, you should try to keep the temp around 75-85 degrees Fahrenheit. A few degrees within this temperature are just fine. Night time temps shouldn’t be allowed to drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, whereas 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit is more comfortable for them. Don’t guess on temps – you could cook or freeze your Beardie! Use a good thermometer, one on the cool side and another near the basking site.
A thermometer on the hot part and another on the cool part of the enclosure will make sure that your temps are in the range they should be in. Do not use hot rocks as they are potentially dangerous! Dragons don’t sense heat well with their tummies, and can be lethally scorched without realizing.
A good heat source for night time is a ceramic heating element (CHE). CHE’s are non-light emitting heating units. They get very hot but disperse heat over a very narrow (15″ in diameter) and shallow area. The range for a 60 watt CHE is 8″ down, the range for a 100 watt CHE is 10″ down, the range for a 150 watt CHE is 12″ down, and the range for 250 watts is 14″ down.
CHE’s are not effective in heating large enclosures and a rheostat or dimmer switch may be used for small enclosures so it doesn’t get too hot. It is very important that CHE’s only be used in porcelain/ceramic light sockets as the amount of heat that they produce is enough to melt regular plastic light sockets.
Florian Ross is a small lizard expert and a freelancer who developed comprehensive guides to help people succeed with their bearded dragon pet and have your bearded dragon lizard live two times longer. His guides on Bearded Dragons are considered the definitive guides on raising Bearded Dragons.
Find out more tips on raising Bearded Dragons Lizards and having them live 2 times longer, with his popular ebook about Bearded Dragons or get a free sample of Florian’s bearded dragons caresheet
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Florian_Ross
Ball Python Heat Gradients
May 23rd
Read more at Ball Python Care.
This article discusses ball python care in general but we particularly liked how it reinforced the importance of maintaining a satisifactory heat gradient. To that end, we’ve derived a special UTH window that fits securely in the floor to accomodate under tank heaters where a heat rock is inappropriate. The insulative properities of plywood will not allow heat, or at least a sufficient amount of heat, to radiate through the floor and into the cage to promote digestion and respiratory health. Now pet owners can get the best of both worlds, pairing the benefits of a UTH with the consistent, even temperate gradient of wood.
How To Care For A Ball Python
It’s easier than you think!
Before you ever get a snake of ANY species, consider the following:
1) How big will this snake get, and do I have the room to properly house an animal of that size?
> A ball python does great in a smaller cage considering its size, but a burmese python needs an enclosure at least half its body length – and some burmese get up to 20 feet long! Can you really fit a 10 foot long cage in your house?
2) Can I REALLY afford all the accessories and supplies for the snake?
> For example, for a basic ball python setup, you should budget at least 100 dollars for everything.
3) Am I comfortable feeding mice or rats to the snake?
> Snakes can never be vegetarians; their digestive systems are evolved to live completely on animal proteins. If you have troubles feeding rats to snakes because you had a pet rat once and they’re just so cute… You might want to rethink getting a larger snake. Smaller species such as sandboas and cornsnakes never get large enough to eat rats.
4) Will I still want this snake 20 years from now?
> Most snakes are pretty long lived. Ball pythons easily reach ages of 20 years or even 30 with proper care, and cornsnakes can live up to 25. Are you going to be as fascinated with the snake then as you are now, or are you going to get bored with its care and tire of cleaning the cage? Think realistically – if you’re 20 now and get a baby ball python, when you are 50 years old that snake is very likely to still be going strong!
5) If the snake is for your children… Are you prepared to take over its care?
> Let’s face it, kids are kids, and usually have short attention spans. You as the parent are responsible for the animal’s wellbeing. After a year or so, your child will probably begin to forget to remind you to pick up snakefood on the way home. They might stop cleaning the cage regularly or providing fresh water daily. When that happens, you either need to take over care of the snake, find it a new home with people who will care for it the rest of its life, or start reminding/nagging the child to take care of his or her pet. Unless you have an exceptional child who is mature for his or her age, I don’t recommend snakes for pets for children under 8 years of age.
About The Ball Python Species
Ball Pythons are also known as Royal Pythons in countries outside of the US. That is where they get thier latin name, Python Regius, from. The name Royal Python comes from the myth that Cleopatra wore them as living jewelry around her wrists and neck. The term Ball Python comes from their habit of curling up into a ball as a defense. Ball Pythons are native to the Central Western and Western parts of Africa, with most imported snakes originating in Benin, Ghana, or Togo.
Ball Pythons are constrictors, which puts them in the boid family, along with other pythons and boas. These snakes are also known as “Old World” snakes, because they still have vestigal hips. You can actually see the remnants of legs on either side of the vent, like below. These leg remnants are known as spurs, and ball python males use theirs to “tickle” the female into readiness during courtship. (Pictured is an adult female)
Ball Pythons are exceptionally long lived snakes. The oldest snake on record lived at a zoo, and was reported to have died at the ripe old age of 48 years. Most people who take good care of their animals can expect them to live at least 25 years, if not more.
Ball Pythons are among the smallest python species. Average length of a Ball Python is anywhere from 3 feet to 5 feet, with males generally being smaller than females. Females have been known to get over 5 feet in length, but this is uncommon. There are no obvious visual differences between male and female Ball Pythons! Some might argue that spur length is an indicator of gender, with males having longer spurs, or that a female ball python will always be larger than a male. This is not true. While yes, most females are bigger than most males, there are many, many exceptions to this. The only way to truly know the gender of your adult snake is to probe it. This is when someone who knows what they’re doing (I do NOT recommend you try this without someone showing you how) takes a thin, metal rod and uses it to very gently probe inside the vent back towards the tail. In males, the probe will go deep, because it is following one of the two hemipenes. In females, the probe will barely go past a couple scales. Another method of sexing that is most successful on young snakes is ‘popping’, where the keeper gently pops the hemipenes out. This only works well on younger snakes that do not have strong muscle control over that part of their body yet. I repeat, I do not recommend trying to sex your snake yourself until someone with experience shows you how.
The Setup
First, let us talk about how snakes maintain their body temperature. Snakes are Ectotherms, meaning they get their body heat from their surroundings. This is also known as being “cold-blooded”. Because snakes get their body heat from their environment, that means it is entirely up to you to make sure they have the temperatures they need to thrive. The best way to provide heat for a snake is through a heat gradient; that is, you have a range of temperatures the animal can choose from. For a Ball Python, your ‘hot’ side needs to be around 90 degrees, and your ‘cold’ side needs to be around 80. Keeping a constant temperature of, say, 85 degrees through the entire tank seems like it would be fine, but in reality stresses out your animal. They know what temperature they need to be, and providing a range to choose from allows them to monitor their own body temperature. That is why it is so important to have a heat gradient, and not just one temperature throughout.
Now, the cage! Ball Pythons spend most of their lives in animal burrows in the wild, and so in captivity, spend most of their time hiding in the smallest, darkest, tightest place they can find. On the one hand, that leads to a pretty boring animal to watch, but on the other, they don’t need a large cage. In fact, younger ball pythons do better in smaller cages. A 10 gallon aquarium or something of similar size works well for balls under 1 year of age. For older animals, a 20L tank or something of similar size is adequate.
To heat the cage, a UTH (Under Tank Heater) is by far the best method. Balls need belly heat to digest their food, and a UTH provides this without the drawbacks of a heatrock. Never, EVER use a heatrock. Heatrocks tend to burn animals, and you are best off just staying far, FAR away from them. Back to UTH – I recommend you get a rheostat or some sort of dimmer so you can better control your temperatures. In summer you aren’t going to need to heat things up quite as much as you need to in winter, right?
About winter – if you live in an area that gets very cold, you might want to consider using a heatlamp for that time. UTH’s do not heat the air very well, and so you might find that your snake never moves from where you have it attached to your cage. You can use a low-wattage bulb in a heatlamp to heat up the air in your cage. When you do this, however, you will need to make sure that the heatlamp does not dry out the air too much, which is why I only recommend it when it is cold out.
Ball Pythons require humidity between 40-60%. I recommend you get a digital hygrometer along with digital thermometers to measure your humidity and temperature. You should have something to measure the temperature on both sides of the cage (hot and cold, remember?), with the humidity cage whereever you like. Do not guess at temperatures or humidity, KNOW. There is no excuse for not knowing exactly what temperatures your snake is living at! You might be freezing or cooking your animal without ever knowing it.
As far as cage furniture goes, all you need are two hides (one for each side) and a water bowl big enough for the snake to soak in. My favorite hides are cereal or shoeboxes; they fit my adult snakes perfectly! Just remember that the snakes are looking for the smallest, tightest spot they can fit, so make sure their hides are not too big.
Substrate is what you put on the bottom of the cage, and really depends on your preference. I like to use papertowel, because it’s easy to clean and cheap. Other possibilities are cypress mulch, aspen shavings, or coconut fibers. NEVER, EVER use CEDAR of any kind – it is toxic to just about any kind of animal.
Feeding
Young Ball Pythons should be fed every 7 to 10 days, and adult animals can be dropped to every 10 to 14 days. There are many schools of thought on the “right” way to feed a ball python; basically, if your animal is at a good weight and healthy, then you’re doing it right. Here’s an example of my feeding schedule for my three:
Periscope: 1 small rat every 7 days
Darwin: 1 medium rat every 10-14 days
Cindy: 1 medium rat every 7 days
Periscope is a growing young snake and uses all that energy from regular, frequent feeding to grow. Darwin is at a comfortable weight and healthy, and so he is fed less frequently. Cindy is putting weight back on after laying eggs, and so she is getting small, frequent meals to gain weight. Cindy could easily take jumbo rats; however, she doesn’t need to. Feeder animals are extremely nutritious compared to what these snakes would eat in the wild, and so they do just as well on smaller prey items.
Ball Pythons are notorious for being finicky eaters. Common causes for not eating are stress, breeding season, or too-low temperatures. However, sometimes, balls just don’t eat for whatever reason. If your snake is at a healthy weight, then you have nothing to worry about. The only time you should worry is if it has been over 6 months since the snake last ate AND it is losing weight. Ball Pythons have been known to fast for up to a year with no ill effects, so while it is stressful for you to have a snake refusing to eat, remember that for the snake it is perfectly normal.
Ball Pythons do not “hibernate” during the winter. Wintertime is their breeding season, and it usually begins once temperatures start dropping at night. Many Ball Pythons will not eat during this time, regardless of whether or not there’s a snake of the opposite gender around.
Water Dragon Waterfall Slideshow
May 23rd
Super useful slideshow depicting how to setup a waterfall inside your terrarium. Be sure to note the captions above the slideshow as that is where Michael Wallitis goes into great detail about the design and construction of various elements Elements of Vivarium Design Slideshow.
We get a lot of questions about this exact topic so hopefully this will be a huge help to all of our customers!!! This is also why we insist on plywood cages for aquatic environments as melamine fused particleboard does not perform well when exposed to the elements. While the melamine overlays repeal water, any exposed particleboard surfaces around the door or around screwheads will swell as much as 18% when wet. Plywood by comparison, only expands 1-3% without losing any of its structural or thermal reintentive properties.
Reptile Racks
Apr 20th
In the spirit of Building vs Buying. Jason at NortheastSnakes.com has a step-by-step pictorial for building your own rack. Find the plans here.
INTRODUCTION:
I started with the idea of making an affordable, yet simple reptile rack, that houses reptiles efficiently & securely. These racks are simply an alternative for hobbyists, like myself, who cannot afford expensive, professionally manufactured rack systems. I was going to start selling these racks, however, I have had several medical problems and am unable to produce these racks on a regular basis. Furthermore, I could not find a way to ship them to still keep it cost effective. Therefore, this page is an attempt to share my design and ideas with you. If you have any questions, please feel free to email me.
Sincerely, Jason
northeastsnakes@verizon.net
CLICK HERE FOR A STEP-BY-STEP PICTURE GUIDE
TO BUILDING THE ABOVE SNAKE RACKS
FAQ’s (Frequently Asked Questions)
I’m frustrated with my current set-up! What can I do?
I’ve tried just about every method possible to house my reptiles. From glass aquariums to stacked containers, I’ve tried it all. I’m 31 years old and I’ve had 4 major abdominal surgeries & am simply unable to lift or move heavy enclosures. Plus, aquariums are not ideal if you have more than a few animals. For a while, I kept my reptiles in Sterilite containers, which I stacked on top of one another. This can be frustrating when you need to move containers around to access one on the bottom of the stack. Plus, removing lids is a pain. Furthermore, a stack of containers simply looks bad when you want to show your collection to friends & family. At one point, I dreaded having to clean & feed my snakes due to the time required. Caring for my reptiles is much more enjoyable now that I have an efficient rack system.
Heat Tape & Heating Questions and Answers
I get this question a lot. I heat my entire room using digitally-controlled heating system. The center of the room is slightly warmer than where the racks back up to the wall. Therefore, my snakes can still thermo-regulate to a small degree between warm and cool ends of their enclosures. I do not use heat tape simply because I do not feel safe using it. This is simply a personal choice. Many people use it safely & successfully. If you choose to use heat tape with your racks, just be sure to use a thermostat or have an experienced person do it for you.
What materials are used?
The design is simple. My racks are constructed using Pine 1×2″s and 1×3″s. The shelves are 1/4″ expanded PVC (also called PVCX), which I obtain from a local manufacturer. It is a similar material used for pipes in plumbing. However, expanded PVC is simply in sheet form & is mainly used to make signs, such as real estate/for-sale signs. There are several brand names for this material, such as Sintra or Komatex. I originally purchased it from USPlastics.com, but it was too costly having it shipped & it did not arrive in the best shape. USPlastics.com has good information on the properties of this material if you’d like to learn more about it. I get a lot of e-mails about where to look for PVCX…my suggestion….start in the phone book under plastics. I purchase pvcx locally from a company called E&T Plastics.
Why not simply buy a commercially made reptile rack?
Commercial reptile racks are expensive & start at approximately $340.00 (and priced as high as $3000.00). For racks starting at $340, add about $100 for ten containers plus another $60 for shipping. This now brings the price of 1 rack up to about $500.00!!! Plus, if you have to buy the tubs, you’ll need to make holes in all of them, which takes time. Once your reptile collection starts to grow, you’ll quickly need a decent rack system that is affordable and allows for easy access & easy cleaning. I respect the professional caging manufacturers and would highly recommend that you consider all of your options before making any decisions. I personally could not afford to purchase a large number of manufactured racks when I needed them, so I made the decision to custom-build them myself. I hope to help those that can’t afford a $500 rack.
How long does it take to build the rack?
Aside from the driving time it takes to obtain materials, anywhere from 2 – 4 hours per rack to build. Add another few hours to make holes in all the Sterilite containers. Additional time is necessary for the wood portion of the rack to settle and adjust to varying temperatures. This can take a few days. There is always a learning curve and typically your worst rack will be your first one built.
Can it be modified for other tub sizes?
YES! At this time, I only have rack plans for 32 quart Sterilite containers. I feel confident with the design of this rack, especially since it’s what I currently use for my own collection. I have designed similar racks for other size tubs, including 16 qt (for yearling dwarf boas & ball pythons) & 64 qt Sterilites for arboreal species. I am currently in the process of building several 41 qt racks. I have even used PVCx to design an incubator, which has successfully worked. PVCx is a great material to work with. If you are interested in a rack to accommodate different sizes or brands of tubs (i.e. Rubbermaid), you can probably use the same basic design.
Does the rack sag?
To put it simply…NO! I have NOT had any problems with sagging. However, I suppose it could potentially be a problem if you do not have containers in every shelf. In other words, do not leave any slots empty. I also add extra support to the bottom shelf, which helps too. Also, there may be some give with the pine wood, especially if temperatures shift, but I try my best to minimize or prevent this by allowing the wood to settle
Building vs Buying
Apr 20th
More info from the Green Iguana Society. This was written in regards to iguana habitats but it holds true for cages in general. Good insights into the Building verses Buying debate. Check out the rest of their site here Green Iguana Society .
 |
| If you are like most people, chances are your iguana needs a better habitat. Most likely, your iguana needs a habitat that is much larger than the one it currently has, and now you must decide the best way to get it what it needs. On this page, we’ll be discussing the pros and cons of building your own or buying a complete habitat. You basically have three choices: buy one that is already made, have someone you know build one, or build it yourself. First of all, make sure you learn all you can about what type of habitat your iguana needs. Once you learn what your iguana needs, buying or building a habitat will be easier, and you won’t end up with a habitat that you’ll need to replace later on. Most iguana owners end up going through several different habitats because they are still learning, and they discover later on that they should have done something different. Whether you’re building your own or buying a custom built habitat, learn all you can before you decide, and try to do it right the first time.
Buying a custom habitat – Although it may sound like the best way to go, buying a ready made cage or habitat usually isn’t the best way to go, unless you have a lot of money. Even then, you can end up with a habitat that isn’t the best for your iguana. There are many custom habitats and cages available, and most generally, they are very expensive and often times far too small for an adult iguana. There are only a few places that sell habitats for iguanas that are of suitable size. If you can afford one of these and do not want to venture into building your own, then by all means, buy one, but make sure it’s of suitable size and functionality for your iguana. Your iguana will get LARGE and it will definitely need a large habitat, unless of course you plan on allowing your iguana to be a free roamer. If you are allowing your iguana to be a free roamer, it can also be a good idea to have a habitat of some sort for your iguana to retreat to, if needed. If this is the case, you may be able to get away with providing a somewhat smaller habitat, but it still needs to be quite large. For more information on free roaming and setting up your home for a free roaming iguana, please visit our Freedom & Free Roaming section. If you do decide to look into buying a custom-made enclosure, the web sites listed below may be useful:
Custom Wood Reptile Cages – http://customwoodreptilecages.com Cages By Design – http://www.cagesbydesign.com Keith van Zile: Lizard Cages.com – http://www.lizardcages.com J.Worlds Unique Reptile and Rainforest Enclosures – http://www.jworlds.net/ (WAY expensive, but really cool) Size is critical – Most importantly, size will be the most important factor when choosing a habitat. Unfortunately, there are many types of cages and enclosures that are sold as “iguana cages” and chances are, they are far too small to be a permanent home for your iguana. Not only are these cages too small for an adult iguana, they are usually quite affordable. This is yet another form of misinformation about iguana care that leads to many iguanas being kept in inadequate habitats, which will most definitely lead to unhealthy and unhappy iguanas. You may be able to “get by” with a smaller cage, but ultimately, the health and happiness of the iguana will suffer. An iguana in a habitat that is too small will be stressed, which can lead to restlessness, nose rubbing and other injuries that are caused by the iguana trying to get out of a small enclosure. You can also get by with a smaller habitat while the iguana is a juvenile and still growing. Going through several habitats throughout the life of the iguana is normal for most iguana owners. If you do it right the first time and buy or build a habitat that is large enough for an adult iguana, you may spend more money now, but the habitat should last your iguana’s lifetime. Cost of a good habitat – It will cost a good amount of money for a suitable habitat. Going through several habitats, either built or bought, will become even more expensive than building or buying a LARGE habitat as early as possible. If you’re buying a habitat, be prepared to spend a great deal of money on one that is large enough for an adult iguana. You’ll probably have a very hard time even finding one large enough, and if you do find one that’s big enough, it will be very expensive. Also, most habitats that you buy do not come with light fixtures, switches, dimmers, and other accessories you may need. If you can’t afford to buy a habitat that is large enough for your iguana, then we definitely recommend that you build your own. Building your own can be much more affordable, but it will still be expensive. Depending on the materials you use, you’ll probably end up spending at least $150 (U.S.) building your own. Chances are, you’ll spend more than that, but it will usually cost much less than a pre-built one of the same size and quality. Building your own habitat – The best part of building your own habitat is that not only will your iguana have what it needs, you can build it exactly how you want it. Once again, you can usually build your own for much less than a pre-built one. Of course, you can also build one that costs much more, but chances are, it will be very nice and well worth the money in the long run. With building your own, you can also make use of exactly the amount of space in your home you’d like to give to your iguana. Many pre-built habitats come in a variety of sizes and colors, but if you build your own, you can make it exactly the size you want, as well as build it to become a decorative and attractive addition to your home. Do tools intimidate you? If you have absolutely no experience with tools, carpentry, electrical work, and building things, then buying a habitat may be the way to go. You may also want to try to get the help of a friend who does have more experience. More times than not, iguana owners end up learning about iguanas as well as carpentry and electrical work. Many iguana owners who had no experience with carpentry are now seasoned pros after building their own habitat. If you do have little or no experience with building things, you will also have the added expense and worry of having or buying the tools you will need to build a habitat. If you have few or no tools, you’ll either need to find a friend that will loan you some basic tools or you’ll have to buy your own. You can literally spend a fortune on high quality tools, but you can also buy inexpensive hand tools, especially if you don’t plan on using them for anything else. Conclusion – If you are planning on getting a new habitat for your iguana, then this is going to be a big decision to make…to buy or build. We would like to suggest that building your own is the best way to go. If you have experience with carpentry, electrical work and building things, then this should be a very easy decision. If you have little or no experience, we suggest that you find a friend that does have some experience and tools to help you. Whatever you decide, we can not stress it enough…. learn all you can about what your iguana needs, make sure you provide a LARGE habitat, and if at all possible, try to do it right the first time so you don’t end up building or buying several habitats throughout the life of your iguana. For more information and what kind of work is involved with building your own habitat, please visit our Planning & Construction page. |
Iguana Habitat
Apr 20th
Info from the Green Iguana Society. We’ve never dealt with them personally but they seem to have some very accurate and reliable information on their site including a list of iguanas available for adoption. Definitely check them out here Green Iguana Society .
|
|
Heat/Lighting – Iguanas need an enclosure or habitat that is kept very warm. Temperatures under basking lights should be in the low to middle 90’s (Fahrenheit), and the ambient air temperature surrounding your iguana should be no lower than 80ºF. Within the cage, a range of temperatures should be provided so that your iguana can regulate its body temperature by moving back and forth between cooler and warmer areas. Daytime heat is best provided with incandescent light bulbs.
Hot rocks are not recommended for iguanas! Not only are hot rocks inadequate in providing heat, but they are dangerous. There have been numerous cases of iguanas obtaining serious burns from hot rocks. Heat and light should come from above, since in the wild iguanas bask in the sunlight. Ordinary incandescent light bulbs work great to provide both heat and light. You do not need to purchase expensive “basking bulbs” from the pet store. These are no different than ordinary bulbs. What wattage of bulbs you will need depends upon the ambient air temperature of the room and the size of the enclosure or basking area. Do not guess when it comes to temperature! It is imperative that you install a few good, reliable thermometers at various places in the enclosure to give you an accurate temperature readout. You can also hook up dimmer switches to your lights, which will allow for minute temperature adjustment. Hooded clamp fixtures work well for basking lights, come in a variety of sizes and can be positioned in various ways within an enclosure. Be sure to use fixtures that are designed to accommodate the bulb wattage you are using. If you are using high wattage bulbs (150-250W), you must use a fixture with a ceramic socket to prevent fire hazard. Be sure to place the fixtures in such a position that your iguana cannot climb on or touch them. If you place the fixtures inside the enclosure, it is a good idea to add a wire “bulb guard”, such as you see in the photo below, to prevent your iguana from coming into direct contact with hot bulbs. Bulb guards can be made from hardware cloth or other safe types of wire. If you have a smaller iguana that is likely to climb up on and/or cling to the light fixtures, consider placing the fixtures outside of the enclosure. |
 This simple bulb guard was made from a small piece of hardware cloth, which is held in place by the simple guard that came with the fixture. The edges of the wire have been bent under so that no sharp edges are exposed. |
|
Nighttime heat – Like all other animals, iguanas must have a day/night cycle. We recommend a 12:12 or a 13:11 cycle. This means that you must shut your iguana’s lights off at night for 12 or 13 hours, or better yet, have them on a timer that turns them off at night and on again in the morning so you do not have to remember to do it. This allows the iguana to regulate behaviors and rest peacefully when necessary. Not providing a day/night light cycle can stress an iguana, causing behavioral changes such as feeding, pooping and unnecessary aggression. Iguanas can and should have cooler temperatures at night, but they still need ambient air temperatures to fall no lower than 75-78ºF. How then, do you provide heat at night, if you use light bulbs to heat the enclosure? There are a few methods of providing nighttime heat. One of the best is to use Ceramic Heat Emitters (CHEs), which screw into an incandescent light fixture and give off only heat, not light. These are available in different wattages. It is possible to have a set up where the lights come on in the morning and turn off at night, and the CHEs come on at night and turn off in the morning. Another possibility is to use a low wattage CHE 24 hours a day in addition to the daytime lights. Since iguanas can and should have cooler temperatures at night, a CHE of the appropriate wattage should provide adequate nighttime warmth.
|
|
A word of caution about CHEs – they get very hot and can be fire hazards and/or dangerous to your iguana if not used correctly. Be sure to use them only in fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets, and keep them away from dry wood or fabrics that are flammable. Be sure to place them in a way that will not allow your iguana to come in contact with them, because their surfaces get very hot and can cause severe burns. Use only the appropriate extension cords that can handle the amount of wattage you plan to plug into them. A CHE can be an efficient and safe source of heat for your iguana, but only if you use them properly. Be sure to read all of the directions and cautionary statements supplied by the manufacturer. Be safe, use your common sense, and above all, be careful – not only with CHEs, but with other heating and lighting devices as well.
|
 |
| Internally-ballasted MV Bulbs: Pros
|
Internally-ballasted MV Bulbs: Cons
|
| Heat & UVB in one fixture – convenient.
|
A bit more expensive than traditional tubes. Cost is usually around $45 each.
|
| Give off higher levels of UVB than tubes.
|
Can produce too much heat when used in smaller enclosures – especially the spot bulbs.
|
| May enhance your iguana’s green coloring and appetite (this is based solely on anecdotal evidence).
|
Have a high burn-out rate. The bulbs are fragile and break if jostled. Bulbs are guaranteed, but returning broken bulbs can be a hassle.
|
| UVB travels further from the bulb, so they work better for larger enclosures and free-roaming iguanas.
|
The spot bulbs give off higher levels of UVB that travels a further distance, but the area covered by the bulb is less. Iguanas must stay directly under the bulbs. The flood bulbs cover a greater area.
|
| Externally-ballasted MV Bulbs: Pros
|
Externally-ballasted MV Bulbs: Cons
|
| Longer-lasting with a lower failure rate than internally-ballasted MV bulbs.
|
More expensive than traditional tubes and internally-ballasted MV bulbs. Cost is usually around $75 each.
|
| Give off higher levels of UVB than tubes.
|
Do not give off heat. A separate heat source is required.
|
| Can be used in smaller enclosures due to low heat output.
|
Not as widely available or as easy to find at this time as traditional tubes and internally-ballasted MV bulbs.
|
| Traditional Fluorescent Tubes: Pros
|
Traditional Fluorescent Tubes: Cons
|
| A bit cheaper per bulb than MV bulbs.
|
Should be doubled-up for best results, thus bringing cost closer to that of interally-ballasted MV bulbs. Two tubes will usually cost around $30-$45.
|
| Can be used in smaller enclosures where an internally-ballasted MV bulb may produce too much heat.
|
Produce much less UVB than MV bulbs. Plus, because fluorescent tubes do not produce heat, additional heat bulbs are necessary.
|
| Have a lower burn-out rate than internally-ballasted MV bulbs.
|
Do not work well in cheap fluorescent fixtures. High-end fixtures are necessary for maximum UVB output.
|
| Come in different lengths to fit different enclosures.
|
The UVB does not travel far; thus it is necessary that the bulb is positioned no more than 12″-15″ from the iguana.
|
|
This photo shows one way to increase the humidity in an enclosure. An ordinary drier duct is attached over the outlet of a cool-mist humidifier with duct tape, and the mist from the humidifier then enters directly into the enclosure through the duct. This simple set-up raises the humidity in the enclosure by as much as 20%. |
| Conclusion – There are a variety of enclosure designs that will be equally successful at providing your iguana with what it needs – proper heating, lighting, and humidity. What materials, design and heating/lighting devices you choose to use will depend upon the size of the enclosure or habitat, the placement of the enclosure, the surrounding room temperatures, and so on. For ideas on how to decide whether to build or buy, how to go about choosing the best building materials, and how to actually put it all together, visit our Building vs. Buying page, and the Planning and Construction page. If you have more than one iguana, visit our Multiple Iguanas page for a discussion on the pros and cons of housing two or more iguanas together. Thinking about building an outdoor cage? Check out the Outdoor Sunning Cages page. |
Formaldehyde Emissions
Jan 23rd
The particleboard substrate, not the melamine-impregnated overlays, contain formaldehyde based resins. However, particleboard is actually becoming safer as the California Air Resource Board as passed a series of laws drastically reducing the amount of free-formaldehyde molecules allowed. Even the board coming from China must meet these strict standards so chemical concerns are unfounded. Prior to the CARB standards being implemented, particleboard was relatively stable once laminated. Most of the off gasing occurs during the cutting and fabrication process when the wood fibers are being disturbed. However, the problem of sagging remains and as mills convert their glue lines to more environmentally friendly (weaker) resins, the internal bond strength erodes causing the modulas of elasticity to fall (e.g. less horizontal stiffness) Because of this problem we add interior trusses to our larger cages to reinforce the roof. Actually, we’ve begun moving away from particleboard altogether in favor of a plywood core panel with melamine overlays. This way you still get the clean look of melamine overlays with the strength and lighter weight of plywood. Its a lot more expensive to have plywood laid up in this manner but a bowed roof is unacceptable.
Glass Aquariums vs Wooden Cages
Jan 21st
When you walk into a room and see a glass aquarium that is not filled with fish your mind assumes that it contains some type of reptile or insect. Aquariums of all shapes and sizes with a screen lids have become extremely popular over the years when it comes to reptile husbandry. They are acceptable for reptiles but do not make a very suitable home for your beloved pet. In this short article I will cover a few pros and many cons that come into effect when you choose these over a more ideal custom built enclosure.
There are many unpractical things that factor in when using an aquarium. Both cost and availability are definitely things that make aquariums a common purchase. There really is not a cheaper road to go down when it comes to setting up a terrarium for your pet. You can find a variety of sizes and lids to fit them at most pet stores and some super stores. Visibility is another quality that makes an aquarium applicable. Being able to see your pet from all angles is definitely something that people enjoy. Although it is easy to clean glass is a very poor insulator and heat can quickly escape through it. This becomes even more of a problem when you a incorporate a commonly used screen lid. Heat rises making it very hard to keep your habitat warmer than the room its displayed in. Last but not least please keep in mind how easily glass breaks, chips and leaks with age. Its the combination of easy maintenance and affordability that make aquariums readily found in homes across the country.
I have found in my 12 years of experience that wooden cages make the safest and most cost effective enclosures. There is not a better cage material on the market that will keep your critter warm and cozy. The interior heat will remain inside your habitat leading to a healthier life for your pet and cheaper electric bills for you. These cages are water resistant when properly treated making them just as usable as aquariums. Clear or screened doors and vents make it easy to peak in and see what your reptile is doing. The durability is unmatched making a wooden cage something that can last a lifetime. When finished professionally your terrarium can be very attractive both inside and out. These cages are regularly found on display in many homes, offices and businesses.
When it comes to collection pets, please take into consideration everything I have mentioned above. I have unfortunetly learned these lessons through trial and error and hope that I can keep you from doing the same. Leave the glass aquariums to the fishes and the reptile enclosures to the professionals. Visit us at
www.newreptilecages.com and see how easy and affordable it is to keep your pet in something that not only makes a perfect habitat but will add to the beautiful decor of your home or business. Thanks and see you around next time for some more simple yet important facts about collecting reptiles
- Nick Eichensehr – C.B. Boids and CoFounder of New Reptile Cages