Housing
For a bearded dragon that is under two months old and under 7 inches long, I would recommend a cage that has at least two square feet of floor space. The aquarium size equivalent to his would probably be about 30 gallons. I would not use anything bigger because the bearded dragon would have trouble finding its food. I would also not recommend using anything smaller because then the lizard wouldn’t have enough room to run around and be active. For a juvenille that is between 9 and 13 inches, I would recommend using a cage that has about four square feet of floor space, or a 55gallon aquarium. This size can be used for a single adult as well. For adults, make sure you have at least 4sq feet of ground space for each adult. Never house more than 4 or 5babies together or else you will have nipped tails and missing feet.
The enclosure can be made of anything, but I prefer either wood or glass. This is because they hold heat better than any other material. Whatever you use make sure there is plenty of room and there is a top on the cage. this is to prevent the lizard from escaping.

Substrate
The substrate can be anything you want it to be. Just make sure it is not toxic to the animal. I would recommend using either sand, newspaper, paper towels, alfafa pellets, or astro turf. If you use sand make sure it is washed playsand that you can buy at toys R’ us or home depot. Dont use sand for bearded dragons that are under two minths of age. This is because they are more likely to ingest the sand and block their intestines than older bearded dragons. If this happens then they most likely will die. If you use astroturf, make sure there are no frared edges just incase the bearded dragon might eat it and get impacted. Whatever you use make sure the substrate is kept clean and replaced periodically. NEVER USE PINE OR CEDAR AS THE SUBSTRATE BECAUSE THEY ARE TOXIC TO REPTILES AND WILL KILL THEM.

Decorations
I would recommend using wood and rocks to decorate the cage. This way the cage will sort of resemble the bearded dragons natural habitat. The wood I recomend using is sandblasted grapevine or sterilized driftwood. Driftwood can be sterilized by putting it in the oven at 200degrees for about 30 minutes. Always keep an eye on the wood to make sure it doesn’t start on fire. The rocks can be small 5 pound boulders that can be found everywhere, also make sure they are sterilized the same way as the wood. These are just recommendations on how to decorate a cage, do it anyway you want but DONT USE PINE OR CEDAR BECAUSE THEY ARE TOXIC TO REPTILES.

Heating
To heat the cage I would recommend using an incandescent light bulb in a reflector dome placed over one end of the cage. The reflector dome and light bulb can be purchased from home depot or walmart for about $8. The temperatures in the cage should be (all in degrees fahrenheit) 80-85 in the cool end 90-95 in the warm end, and 100-105 directly under the light bulb. To heat the cage you can also use a heat pad that can be purchased from any petstore that deals with reptiles. I would only use this in conjuction with the reflector dome in cooler parts of the country. It should be wrapped in a towel and placed under one end of the cage. The wattage of light bulb depends on the cage size, try out different wattages untill you get the closest to the temperatures mentioned above. NEVER USE HOT ROCKS, BECUASE THEY DEVELOPE HOT SPOTS AND CAN SEVERELY BURN YOUR LIZARD.

Lighting
Always have a UVB UVA light such as Reptisun 5.0 or vitalite placed over the cage at all times. The light should be kept on for about 12 hours a day, always turn off all lights at night. If you don’t use a UVB UVA light bulb then the lizard will die. The light bulb helps the lizard absorb vital nutrients and vitamins that are needed for good health. In addition to the special lighting, periodical exposure to natural sunlight will also be helpful. NEVER LEAVE YOUR LIZARD UNATTENDED OUTSIDE BECAUSE IT MIGHT RUN AWAY. The lights can be purchased from any petstore that deals with reptiles. Make sure the light bulb is long enough to cover the whole length of the cage.

Diet
Baby bearded dragons should be fed about 80% live foods like crickets, mealworms, and very very occasionally waxworms. Always make sure that the babys prey is no more than 1/4 inch long and half that width. Anything bigger will cause irreversable damage to the bearded dragon. They should also be fed leafy greens like kale, collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, radish leaves, but never feed iceburg lettuce because it has no nutritional value whatsoever. Juvenilles and adults can be fed appropiately sized insects like crickets, locusts, grasshoppers, mealworms, superworms, and an occasional waxworm or pinky mouse. Only feed pinkys and waxworms ever once in awhile because they are high in fat content. Make sure the prey is not longer than the distance between the eyes of the bearded dragon and half the width.
Every other meal should be supplemented with a calcium supplement and a multi vitamin. the calcium can be grinded up tums or a product called rep-cal/ the multi vitamin can be herptivite. All these can be purchased from a petstore that deals with reptiles.

Selecting a Bearded Dragon
The bearded dragon you are looking to buy should have bright alert eyes. It should appear active and healthy. It should not have a fecal matter by the vent or deformities (crooked jaw, bent arm, etc). It should not have any external parasites or wounds (ticks, mites, bleeding sores, etc). And if possible, have the person you are buying from feed the dragon before you buy it, This wya you will be able to see if the dragon is eating before you buy it.

Beardies require a temperature gradient in their enclosures because they can’t regulate their body temperatures like. They have to thermo regulate, which means that they have to move between areas of differing temperatures in order to regulate their internal temperature.

To produce heat and a basking spot in your enclosure, you can use either a ceramic heat emitter, a reptile basking light (red, blue or white) or just a plain old household light bulb.

The best fixture for any of these choices is a porcelain dome light fixture. This type of fixture is a must with a ceramic heat emitter due to the amount of heat they produce. The temperature for this basking spot you created should be around 110 degrees Fahrenheit for juveniles and can be around 95 degrees for adults.

Your Beardie will also need an area to cool down if he gets too warm. At the opposite end of the tank, you should try to keep the temp around 75-85 degrees Fahrenheit. A few degrees within this temperature are just fine. Night time temps shouldn’t be allowed to drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, whereas 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit is more comfortable for them. Don’t guess on temps – you could cook or freeze your Beardie! Use a good thermometer, one on the cool side and another near the basking site.

A thermometer on the hot part and another on the cool part of the enclosure will make sure that your temps are in the range they should be in. Do not use hot rocks as they are potentially dangerous! Dragons don’t sense heat well with their tummies, and can be lethally scorched without realizing.

A good heat source for night time is a ceramic heating element (CHE). CHE’s are non-light emitting heating units. They get very hot but disperse heat over a very narrow (15″ in diameter) and shallow area. The range for a 60 watt CHE is 8″ down, the range for a 100 watt CHE is 10″ down, the range for a 150 watt CHE is 12″ down, and the range for 250 watts is 14″ down.

CHE’s are not effective in heating large enclosures and a rheostat or dimmer switch may be used for small enclosures so it doesn’t get too hot. It is very important that CHE’s only be used in porcelain/ceramic light sockets as the amount of heat that they produce is enough to melt regular plastic light sockets.

Florian Ross is a small lizard expert and a freelancer who developed comprehensive guides to help people succeed with their bearded dragon pet and have your bearded dragon lizard live two times longer. His guides on Bearded Dragons are considered the definitive guides on raising Bearded Dragons.

Find out more tips on raising Bearded Dragons Lizards and having them live 2 times longer, with his popular ebook about Bearded Dragons or get a free sample of Florian’s bearded dragons caresheet

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Florian_Ross

This article discusses ball python care in general but we particularly liked how it reinforced the importance of maintaining a satisifactory heat gradient.  To that end, we’ve derived a special UTH window that fits securely in the floor to accomodate under tank heaters where a heat rock is inappropriate.  The insulative properities of plywood will not allow heat, or at least a sufficient amount of heat, to radiate through the floor and into the cage to promote digestion and respiratory health.  Now pet owners can get the best of both worlds, pairing the benefits of a UTH with the consistent, even temperate gradient of wood.

We get a lot of questions about this exact topic so hopefully this will be a huge help to all of our customers!!! This is also why we insist on plywood cages for aquatic environments as melamine fused particleboard does not perform well when exposed to the elements. While the melamine overlays repeal water, any exposed particleboard surfaces around the door or around screwheads will swell as much as 18% when wet. Plywood by comparison, only expands 1-3% without losing any of its structural or thermal reintentive properties.

Introduction

The most common reptile brought to our hospital is the green iguana. The primary reason owners bring in their ill green iguana’s is because they have developed a disease called metabolic bone disease (MBD), also known as nutritional secondary hyperparathyroidism (NSHP). The cause of this disease is poor husbandry, especially an inadequate diet. Unfortunately, the literature abounds with erroneous information on the precise needs of these creatures. This outdated an incorrect information continues to be propagated by individuals and organizations with good intentions but limited knowledge.

Iguanas are not the only reptile that encounters this problem. We find it in many types of lizards, turtles, and tortoises. It does not occur in carnivorous reptiles like snakes and monitor lizards very often because the whole prey they consume provides a proper diet.

We have a short Quicktime movie on an Iguana with twitching muscles. You need Quicktime from www.apple.com to view it.
Cause

This disease has many factors that work together in causing this condition. The primary reason iguanas develop this disease is due to a diet too low in calcium. More specifically, the ratio of calcium to phosphorous (usually the phosphorous is too high) in their diets is inadequate to promote growth and sustain normal physiological functions. As a result, they become very ill, and can even succumb to the disease.

Other factors that exacerbate the poor diet problem are common in most households that have iguanas. Inadequate exposure to direct sunlight (not through glass), not keeping the humidity at 90% and not keeping the temperature at 90 degrees F all add to the problem:

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Sunlight of a specific ultraviolet frequency is needed to produce vitamin D3 by the iguana’s skin. This vitamin is needed for the absorption and utilization of calcium in the diet. No matter how much calcium there is in the diet, without this vitamin the calcium would not be be absorbed or utilized . This is why milk that we drink is fortified with vitamin D. Black Lights and other artificial ultraviolet lights are helpful, but they can not replace sunshine.
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In order to maintain normal bodily functions (ability to digest food, fight infections, etc.) an iguana needs to maintain a high body temperature. Since they are reptiles, they maintain this temperature by absorbing the heat from their environment. They can not produce enough internal body heat like birds and mammals can when placed in a cold environment. also, the precursor to vitamin D needs to be at the proper temperature to be converted to the active form of the vitamin.

In the semi arid environment in some parts of the country, or the heat needed to warm homes in the winter, many iguanas live in a perpetual state of dehydration. This dramatically interferes with their physiology and predisposes them to many problems.

This is a typical Iguana cage that is inadequate. There is no branch with leaves to bask on, no access to any sun, let alone through the glass, and inadequate humidity. The bowl of water does not give enough moisture, and the heat lamp that is present in the corner does not supply proper ambient heat. Putting dirt in the bottom of the cage is a good idea.

Symptoms

Iguanas with this disease have many problems. The bones might be swollen, soft, or even fractured. In severe cases the blood calcium level becomes so low that tremors occur. The jaw might be swollen (called lumpy jaw by some people) because nature is trying to bring in supporting tissue to make up for the lack of strength to the bones of the jaw. The same thing happens to the bones of the legs, and when the problem is severe enough, or has gone on long enough, the bones of the arms and legs can fracture (called a pathologic fracture) all by themselves. Some of these iguanas will be unable to walk properly due to spinal cord damage, and many of them will be more susceptible to common infections because they are too weak to develop a proper immune response. As the bones of the jaw become weaker it becomes impossible to eat, further exacerbating the problem. They may have distended abdomens and bones leading their owners to the erroneous conclusion that their pet is fat and sassy, and receiving an adequate diet. Growing iguanas and females laying eggs have a greater need for calcium and might me more prone to this problem. Females with eggs might not have the strength to lay them, and sometimes even require surgery if they become egg bound.

Lumpy jaw occurs when the body brings fibrous tissue to the area to stabilize the weak bones. A lump at the jaw can also be caused by an abscess.

The fold of skin on the side of this iguana is evidence of dehydration.

This Iguana has such a low calcium level that the muscles are twitching. Double click the movie once it downloads and you can see the arm muscles and hands twitching. This is called tetany, and is a serious sign. The two most common causes of tetany in an Iguana are MBD and Kidney failure.

Diagnosis

A diagnosis of NSHP is made based on history, physical exam findings, and radiography. The history might indicate a diet of iceberg lettuce, dog or cat food, or packaged iguana meal. Swelling of the jaw and legs, low body weight, weakness, dehydration, poor appetite, and lethargy all might be noted on physical exam. X-rays are very diagnostic. Even though this is a problem of low calcium level, blood samples show normal calcium levels commonly.

This is the femur (thigh) bone of a healthy iguana. Compare it to the diseased one below.

This is the thinning (arrow) that occurs in this disease. In addition to poor bone strength, this iguana has an infection.

This iguana has a severe form of the disease. The spine is deformed which has interfered with the nervous system, so it is unable to walk or eat well. This creature is gravely ill. To let a creature deteriorate to this point is a crime.

An x-ray reveals the extent of the curvature problem to the spine.

Treatment

Iguanas that are diagnosed with NSHP are usually very ill and often need to be hospitalized. During hospitalization they are given fluids to correct dehydration, a special liquid diet, injections of vitamin D3, injections of calcium, oral calcium, and antibiotics if they have an infection. Those that have pathologic fractures are splinted.

After they are stabilized in the hospital they are sent home with calcium supplements, antibiotics if needed, and their dietary deficiency is corrected. They need to return weekly for at least several weeks for vitamin D3 injections and calcitonin injections.

A typical splint applied when both rear legs have pathological fractures.

An x-ray of this splint shows the padded paper clips that are used for support.

This different case was referred to us. The splints on these front legs are inadequate, as evidenced by the displacement of the fractured ends.

We performed surgery in order to correct this problem. These pins will be removed in 1-2 months.

This disease occurs in other lizards, like this young chameleon with numerous pathological fractures. There are differences in why this species gets this problem as opposed to the green iguana, but the main problem of inadequate husbandry stays consistent.

This little guy has fractures on all 4 legs due to inadequate husbandry.

In some cases the bones that allow the tongue to move normally are permanently injured and the tongue is rendered useless.

This disease also occurs in tortoises.The shell is soft due to inadequate nutrition.

Prevention

It must be fully understood that iguanas are ectothermic animals. This means they are highly dependent on their environment for their normal physiological functions, much more so than birds and mammals. They come from Central america where the temperature and humidity are consistent- 90% humidity and 90 degrees F. In addition, they bask in the direct sun many hours each day. If these conditions can not be replicated then these animals should not be kept in captivity. Ignorance of their needs is no excuse.

Their diet should consist heavily of dark green leafy vegetables in order to have the proper ratio of calcium to phosphorous. Contrary to what you may read elsewhere, these animals are not omnivores, they are strictly vegetarians, even when they are young. Therefore, high protein diets (dog food, cat food, protein supplements) are not to be fed to them. These high protein diets will cause them to grow bigger and faster, but will also cause their kidneys to fail. Vitamin supplements that contain calcium should be given weekly.

The following list describes would should and should not be fed. A combination of several items from the “Should Be Fed List” need to be fed, not just one or two items. For small iguana’s it is helpful to dice up your vegetables into very small pieces so that they don’t eat only a few items.

Foods That Should Be Fed

Collared GreensMustard GreensGreen LeafRed LeafButter leafDandelion GreensMango and PapayaBroccoliNon toxic flowers

Foods That Should Not Be Fed

Dog FoodCat FoodRodentsEggsIceberg LettucePizzaMeatInsects

Prognosis

This disease is correctable and preventable. If a pet iguana is brought to us in an advanced state of the disease then the prognosis is not good. Otherwise, we are able to return a large percent of them to relative normalcy if our full treatment regimen is followed. After the immediate problem is corrected it is mandatory to provide the optimum environment for their proper quality of life.

INTRODUCTION:
I started with the idea of making an affordable, yet simple reptile rack, that houses reptiles efficiently & securely. These racks are simply an alternative for hobbyists, like myself, who cannot afford expensive, professionally manufactured rack systems. I was going to start selling these racks, however, I have had several medical problems and am unable to produce these racks on a regular basis. Furthermore, I could not find a way to ship them to still keep it cost effective. Therefore, this page is an attempt to share my design and ideas with you. If you have any questions, please feel free to email me.

Sincerely, Jason
northeastsnakes@verizon.net
CLICK HERE FOR A STEP-BY-STEP PICTURE GUIDE
TO BUILDING THE ABOVE SNAKE RACKS
FAQ’s (Frequently Asked Questions)
I’m frustrated with my current set-up! What can I do?
I’ve tried just about every method possible to house my reptiles. From glass aquariums to stacked containers, I’ve tried it all. I’m 31 years old and I’ve had 4 major abdominal surgeries & am simply unable to lift or move heavy enclosures. Plus, aquariums are not ideal if you have more than a few animals. For a while, I kept my reptiles in Sterilite containers, which I stacked on top of one another. This can be frustrating when you need to move containers around to access one on the bottom of the stack. Plus, removing lids is a pain. Furthermore, a stack of containers simply looks bad when you want to show your collection to friends & family. At one point, I dreaded having to clean & feed my snakes due to the time required. Caring for my reptiles is much more enjoyable now that I have an efficient rack system.

Heat Tape & Heating Questions and Answers
I get this question a lot. I heat my entire room using digitally-controlled heating system. The center of the room is slightly warmer than where the racks back up to the wall. Therefore, my snakes can still thermo-regulate to a small degree between warm and cool ends of their enclosures. I do not use heat tape simply because I do not feel safe using it. This is simply a personal choice. Many people use it safely & successfully. If you choose to use heat tape with your racks, just be sure to use a thermostat or have an experienced person do it for you.

What materials are used?
The design is simple. My racks are constructed using Pine 1×2″s and 1×3″s. The shelves are 1/4″ expanded PVC (also called PVCX), which I obtain from a local manufacturer. It is a similar material used for pipes in plumbing. However, expanded PVC is simply in sheet form & is mainly used to make signs, such as real estate/for-sale signs. There are several brand names for this material, such as Sintra or Komatex. I originally purchased it from USPlastics.com, but it was too costly having it shipped & it did not arrive in the best shape. USPlastics.com has good information on the properties of this material if you’d like to learn more about it. I get a lot of e-mails about where to look for PVCX…my suggestion….start in the phone book under plastics. I purchase pvcx locally from a company called E&T Plastics.

Why not simply buy a commercially made reptile rack?
Commercial reptile racks are expensive & start at approximately $340.00 (and priced as high as $3000.00). For racks starting at $340, add about $100 for ten containers plus another $60 for shipping. This now brings the price of 1 rack up to about $500.00!!! Plus, if you have to buy the tubs, you’ll need to make holes in all of them, which takes time. Once your reptile collection starts to grow, you’ll quickly need a decent rack system that is affordable and allows for easy access & easy cleaning. I respect the professional caging manufacturers and would highly recommend that you consider all of your options before making any decisions. I personally could not afford to purchase a large number of manufactured racks when I needed them, so I made the decision to custom-build them myself. I hope to help those that can’t afford a $500 rack.

How long does it take to build the rack?
Aside from the driving time it takes to obtain materials, anywhere from 2 – 4 hours per rack to build. Add another few hours to make holes in all the Sterilite containers. Additional time is necessary for the wood portion of the rack to settle and adjust to varying temperatures. This can take a few days. There is always a learning curve and typically your worst rack will be your first one built.

Can it be modified for other tub sizes?
YES! At this time, I only have rack plans for 32 quart Sterilite containers. I feel confident with the design of this rack, especially since it’s what I currently use for my own collection. I have designed similar racks for other size tubs, including 16 qt (for yearling dwarf boas & ball pythons) & 64 qt Sterilites for arboreal species. I am currently in the process of building several 41 qt racks. I have even used PVCx to design an incubator, which has successfully worked. PVCx is a great material to work with. If you are interested in a rack to accommodate different sizes or brands of tubs (i.e. Rubbermaid), you can probably use the same basic design.

Does the rack sag?
To put it simply…NO! I have NOT had any problems with sagging. However, I suppose it could potentially be a problem if you do not have containers in every shelf. In other words, do not leave any slots empty. I also add extra support to the bottom shelf, which helps too. Also, there may be some give with the pine wood, especially if temperatures shift, but I try my best to minimize or prevent this by allowing the wood to settle

Heat/Lighting – Iguanas need an enclosure or habitat that is kept very warm. Temperatures under basking lights should be in the low to middle 90’s (Fahrenheit), and the ambient air temperature surrounding your iguana should be no lower than 80ºF. Within the cage, a range of temperatures should be provided so that your iguana can regulate its body temperature by moving back and forth between cooler and warmer areas. Daytime heat is best provided with incandescent light bulbs. Hot rocks are not recommended for iguanas! Not only are hot rocks inadequate in providing heat, but they are dangerous. There have been numerous cases of iguanas obtaining serious burns from hot rocks. Heat and light should come from above, since in the wild iguanas bask in the sunlight. Ordinary incandescent light bulbs work great to provide both heat and light. You do not need to purchase expensive “basking bulbs” from the pet store. These are no different than ordinary bulbs. What wattage of bulbs you will need depends upon the ambient air temperature of the room and the size of the enclosure or basking area. Do not guess when it comes to temperature! It is imperative that you install a few good, reliable thermometers at various places in the enclosure to give you an accurate temperature readout. You can also hook up dimmer switches to your lights, which will allow for minute temperature adjustment. Hooded clamp fixtures work well for basking lights, come in a variety of sizes and can be positioned in various ways within an enclosure. Be sure to use fixtures that are designed to accommodate the bulb wattage you are using. If you are using high wattage bulbs (150-250W), you must use a fixture with a ceramic socket to prevent fire hazard. Be sure to place the fixtures in such a position that your iguana cannot climb on or touch them. If you place the fixtures inside the enclosure, it is a good idea to add a wire “bulb guard”, such as you see in the photo below, to prevent your iguana from coming into direct contact with hot bulbs. Bulb guards can be made from hardware cloth or other safe types of wire. If you have a smaller iguana that is likely to climb up on and/or cling to the light fixtures, consider placing the fixtures outside of the enclosure.

This simple bulb guard was made from a small piece of hardware cloth, which is held in place by the simple guard that came with the fixture. The edges of the wire have been bent under so that no sharp edges are exposed.

Nighttime heat – Like all other animals, iguanas must have a day/night cycle. We recommend a 12:12 or a 13:11 cycle. This means that you must shut your iguana’s lights off at night for 12 or 13 hours, or better yet, have them on a timer that turns them off at night and on again in the morning so you do not have to remember to do it. This allows the iguana to regulate behaviors and rest peacefully when necessary. Not providing a day/night light cycle can stress an iguana, causing behavioral changes such as feeding, pooping and unnecessary aggression. Iguanas can and should have cooler temperatures at night, but they still need ambient air temperatures to fall no lower than 75-78ºF. How then, do you provide heat at night, if you use light bulbs to heat the enclosure? There are a few methods of providing nighttime heat. One of the best is to use Ceramic Heat Emitters (CHEs), which screw into an incandescent light fixture and give off only heat, not light. These are available in different wattages. It is possible to have a set up where the lights come on in the morning and turn off at night, and the CHEs come on at night and turn off in the morning. Another possibility is to use a low wattage CHE 24 hours a day in addition to the daytime lights. Since iguanas can and should have cooler temperatures at night, a CHE of the appropriate wattage should provide adequate nighttime warmth.

A word of caution about CHEs – they get very hot and can be fire hazards and/or dangerous to your iguana if not used correctly. Be sure to use them only in fixtures with porcelain or ceramic sockets, and keep them away from dry wood or fabrics that are flammable. Be sure to place them in a way that will not allow your iguana to come in contact with them, because their surfaces get very hot and can cause severe burns. Use only the appropriate extension cords that can handle the amount of wattage you plan to plug into them. A CHE can be an efficient and safe source of heat for your iguana, but only if you use them properly. Be sure to read all of the directions and cautionary statements supplied by the manufacturer. Be safe, use your common sense, and above all, be careful – not only with CHEs, but with other heating and lighting devices as well.

Remember – the absolute best source of UV light is the sun. When using natural sun exposure be sure to follow these guidelines:

• UVB from natural sunlight is filtered out by most window glass and significantly reduced by obstructions like screen or mesh.
• Preferably the ambient temperatures outside should be close to optimal. Do not leave your iguana outside if temperatures are lower than 80 degree and higher than 100 degrees.
• Be sure your iguana is secure in its outside basking location, preferably a basking cage. Unprotected or unsecured iguanas can fall prey to birds and other wildlife or run off and are rarely ever found again. You should supervise the iguana while outside until you are sure there is no possible way him it to get harmed, injured or escape.
• Be sure to provide plenty of shade for the iguana while outdoors. Iguanas need to thermo-regulate to protect against excessive heat. Half of the basking cage should be sunny, the other half well shaded, allowing the iguana to move from sun to shade at will.
• Be sure to provide a good source of water during the basking time. Iguanas can quickly dehydrate and will need access to clean water at all times while outdoors.
• Provided there is a shaded area, the iguana will stay at a comfortable temperature and the amount of sun exposure will be determined by the iguana. As little as an hour a day will provide the iguana with all the UVB it requires.

There are currently two types widely available of lamps that will emit enough UVB light to be beneficial to your iguana: Fluorescent tubes and Mercury Vapor lamps. Both of these types of UV lights can be purchased at pet stores and can be ordered from herpetological suppliers such as those listed on our Companies and Stores

FLUORESCENT TUBES

By far the most widely used and accessible type of UV bulb or lamp is the fluorescent tube. Just like natural sunlight, these tubes need to be set up and used responsibly in order to provide your iguana with the life-sustaining amount of UVB it needs to live a long, happy and healthy life. Several brands of fluorescent UVB lights are available, but not all brands are of equal quality. The Green Iguana Society recommends the ZooMed Iguana Light 5.0 (also called Reptisun 5.0). This bulb has been on the market for some time and has been shown through studies to provide large enough amounts of UV light to keep your iguana healthy. We recommend that you mount two ZooMed 5.0 bulbs in a high-quality fluorescent fixture to get the best results. Ordinary “full-spectrum” fluorescent bulbs (such as plant-grow bulbs) do not produce adequate amounts UVB! Only bulbs especially made for reptiles do. When selecting a fluorescent lighting solution, please be sure to choose one that is specifically made for basking reptiles and all is rated for high UVB emissions.

There are several factors that are important to remember when setting up fluorescent lamps:

• The fixture should be no more than 8” from the basking spot where the iguana spends its time basking. UV wavelengths only travel up to 8″ or so from the bulb, so if your iguana sits any further away than 6-8″, it will not get the benefit of the UV light.
• Light, heat and ambient air temperatures should all be balanced and monitored to ensure a safe environment for your iguana.
• Tube output should be periodically tested using a Solarmeter 6.2 Spectral radiometer. For more information about the Solarmeter 6.2, see http://www.reptileuv.com/uvmeter62.htm. Solarmeters are also available through Carolina Pet Supply.
• Without a meter, it is best to replace the tubes every six-nine months because after this time, the UV degrades to the point that it is no longer useful, although the bulb still produces visible light. One bulb changing schedule that works well is to put fresh bulbs in around the time when real sunlight basking time is becoming scarce, such as in the fall for those that live in northern climates. The bulbs are then at their full strength when your iguana is relying more heavily on the artificial UV source. Then, when the bulbs’ UV output in dwindling in the spring and summer, your iguana is getting plenty of access to real sunlight.
• Multiple tubes may be necessary to emit the proper levels of UVB.
• The ballast contained in your fixture may affect the UVB output. High-quality fixtures with an electronic ballast will get the best performance out of an UVB tube.
• There can be no obstruction of the light emitted from the fluorescent tubes. This means that no glass or plastic cover or shield should be used. The light must go directly from the tube to the iguana. Glass and plastic filter out UVB wavelengths.

Mercury Vapor lamps (bulbs) are a newer way to provide your iguana with UVB rays. Mercury Vapor (MV) bulbs screw into an ordinary light fixture like an incandescent bulb. MV reptile lighting technology has advanced by leaps and bounds recently and is now a cost-effective, viable solution for an artificial UVB source, and in some cases is even better than fluorescents. MV lamps produce up to three-times more UVB in the 290-300 nanometer range (D-UV, the most beneficial to the iguana) of the total UVB output than tube-style bulbs. There has been great debate over the safety and usefulness of this type of lighting source. As the technology continues to advance, manufacturers are beginning to address safety concerns and stability and significantly decrease the “hazards” of mercury vapor lamp use.

It is important to realize that there are two types of MV bulbs: those with an internal ballast, and those with an external ballast. Although both give off high amounts of UVB, these two types of bulbs are actually quite different in their properties. The internally-ballasted bulbs are the type more commonly sold at pet stores and include brands such as Mega-Ray, T-Rex Spots and ZooMed Powersuns. Internally-ballasted MV bulbs give off heat as well as UVB. In this way they are convenient because you can provide your iguana with both heat and UVB from one bulb in one fixture. However, the internally-ballasted bulbs have a high failure rate, regardless of the bulb brand. Because the bulb gets so hot, the fragile filament breaks easily if the bulb is jiggled while it is on. The externally-ballasted bulbs are not as easy to find, but they are sturdier and have a much lower failure rate than the internally-ballasted bulbs. This is because they do not give off much heat, so the filament does not get as hot. In this way, the externally-ballasted MV bulbs are more similar to the traditional fluorescent tube, and therefore additional, separate heat bulbs must be used in the enclosure.

Based on current research, the Green Iguana Society strongly recommends the Mega-Ray MV bulb by Westron lighting/Mac Industries. Of the different types of mercury-vapor UVB bulbs available, the Mega-ray consistently gives off high amounts of UVB and has a lower UVB decay rate than other bulb brands. In addition, externally-ballasted Mega-rays are also available.

As with any lighting solution, there are several guidelines that must be followed when using any type of MV bulbs:

• Set up your MV lamp according to manufacturer’s guidelines and instructions concerning placement and distances.
• Closely monitor the iguana and enclosure to ensure proper temps are maintained.
• Be mindful of the bulb’s direction and placement in a room so as to minimize the exposure to humans. Because they produce high UVB levels, treat a MV lamp like natural sunlight. Excessive and prolonged direct exposure by humans is not desirable.
• Monitor the UVB output using a Spectral Radiometer (UVB meter). Strong MV lamps should only be used in conjunction with a radiometer to measure UVB output on a regular basis.
• As with fluorescents, there should be no obstruction of light between the lamp and the iguana.

UVB Lighting and Heat for more detailed information about proper use of mercury-vapor bulbs. To find out more about some of the concerns about mercury-vapor bulbs, read Melissa Kaplan’s article, Mercury Vapor Heat & UV Lamps. More information about Ultra Violet Radiation (UVA and UVB), heating and product use when applied to UVB-dependent basking reptiles can be found at Reptile UV Info. Another way to learn more about UV lighting is to subscribe to the UVB_Meter_Owners mailing list through Yahoo Groups. Ownership of a UVB Meter is not a prerequisite to joining this group. This group’s members have a variety of species under their care, including Tortoises, Turtles, Iguanas, Bearded Dragons, Anoles, and other UVB requiring reptiles. UVA and UVC data are also discussed.Humidity – Iguanas require high humidity as well as high temperatures. It can be difficult to keep the humidity levels in the enclosure at proper levels (between 65-75%). Ways to increase humidity include spritzing the cage and iguana with water several times a day, placing a humidifier in the room where the cage is located, and placing large tubs of water in the enclosure. You can also give your iguana a shower or bath every day to help with moisture availability. This is encouraged for a variety of reasons, including hygiene. (See more about bathing your iguana on our Bathing, Soaking and Misting

Another more sophisticated way of providing a humid habitat is to invest in a misting system or ultrasonic fogger. These products can and usually will be very expensive, but if used properly, they can create perfect humidity levels in your iguana’s habitat. Most misting systems are equipped with timers that will allow it to briefly mist the habitat several times per day. Pro Products offers a high quality misting system as well as several other products, including radiant heat panels. Bush Herpetological Supplies

This photo shows one way to increase the humidity in an enclosure. An ordinary drier duct is attached over the outlet of a cool-mist humidifier with duct tape, and the mist from the humidifier then enters directly into the enclosure through the duct. This simple set-up raises the humidity in the enclosure by as much as 20%.

Geographic Range: The green iguana is found over a large geographic area, from Mexico to southern Brazil and Paraguay, as well as on the Caribbean Islands.

Adaptations: Besides the long fingers and claws mentioned above, green iguanas have many excellent interesting adaptations. Green iguanas have good senses of hearing and smell, and superb vision. Their long tail is also quite sharp, and is snapped in the air as a defense mechanism. The tail can also break off if caught by a predator, but grows back without permanant damage. Green iguana skin is very water resistant, and tough to avoid cuts and scratches. The coloring of the skin helps camoulflage the green iguana, which means that they blend in easily to their surroundings to remain undetected by predators. If they are etected however, and need to escape quickly, these iguanas can dive from trees into water, and swim well. Green iguanas are quite sturdy– they can fall 40-50 feet to the ground without getting hurt! Male green iguanas have a special flap of skin called the dewlap. Male iguanas can raise their dewlap to appear bigger than they really are, either to intimidate predators, or to impressive females. Both male and female green iguanas can store fat under their jaws and in their necks for times when there is not much food available.

Habitat: Iguanas live in tropical rainforest areas, generally in lower altitudes in areas near water sources, such as rivers or streams. They spend most of their time high in the forest canopy, about 40-50 feet above the ground.

Behaviour: Iguanas are diurnal, meaning that they are awake during the day. They are also cold-blooded, which means they do not produce their own body heat. In other words, if it is cold, the iguana is cold too. So to stay warm, green iguanas bask in the sun, lying on warm rocks as they soak up the sun’s heat.

Reproductive Cycle and Family Habits: Green iguanas tend to live alone, but may be seen in groups occasionally in good sunny basking spots. Iguanas lay many eggs at a time (about 50), in holes inthe ground called burrows. They also dig pretend burrows to confuse any animals that may be looking for eggs to eat. After female iguanas lay the eggs, they leave them and do not return. When iguana babies hatch, they grow up without care from their parents. Green iguanas lay many eggs, but only 3-10 babies actually survive to be adults. It takes green iguana eggs about 8-10 weeks to hatch, then takes baby iguanas about 2 years to become mature adults.

Diet: Green iguanas are omnivorous, so they eat both plants and meat. They tend to eat mostly plants, though, especially leaves and fruits. Sometimes green iguanas (especially young ones) will eat eggs, insects, and small vertebrates.

Threats to Survival: Like many trpoical species, the green iguana is also threatened by habitat destruction. The green iguana is also a victim of the pet industry. Many people in the United States and elsewhere want a green iguana for a pet, so there is a big demand for their capture. Although many pet iguanas are now being raised on iguana farms, capture from the wild has lowered their numbers. In addition, some local populations of South America hunt the green iguana for food.

Conservation Efforts: Laws have been made to protect green iguanas from over-hunting and the pet-trade. Unfortunately, these laws are not enforced very well. Many people are trying to develop protected areas for the iguanas, and to educate local populations about the importance of conservation. Some of these educational programs help local populations find new ways of using the land, without permanantly destroying it. For example, for people who want to continue to eat the green iguana, programs are being developed to raise these animals for food, instead of hunting wild ones. Tony Garel, at the Belize Zoo and Tropical Education Center, is woking on one such project to conserve the iguanas and educate local communities Tony has used captive breeding techniques to increase green iguana populations, and has released some of these iguanas into the wild.

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